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Skin cosmetics recipes DIY
Face powder, body powder, rouge, lipstick & more...
Although the use of cosmetics dates back several thousand years, the intensive use by almost everyone dates back to the post-war period. The number of preparations that come on the market is innumerable. In many cases, the so-called new preparations consist of old known substances, the packaging and the name are then the only new ones.
Almost all cosmetics have one characteristic in common, the price is extremely high in relation to the cost of the material. This is partly caused by the high advertising costs, partly by the opinion of the buying public that cheap preparations are no good.
ImportantThe right choice of raw materials is of the utmost importance. The talcum used must not only be extremely fine, but also sufficiently smooth, must not contain soluble substances and must be light. The price of the end product determines the requirements that can be made of the talcum.
Liquid cream
Recipe no. 1. (1920's) |
emulsion |
6 |
|
dl |
Cetiol |
3 |
|
dl |
Water |
90 |
|
dl |
Perfume |
0 |
.5 |
dl |
Preservative |
0 |
.5 |
dl |
Recipe no. 2. (1920's) |
Paraffin oil |
5 |
|
dl |
Cetiol |
15 |
|
dl |
Triethanolamine stearate |
7 |
|
dl |
Distilled water |
72 |
|
dl |
Perfume |
1 |
|
dl |
Powder to be used in a powder spray bottle
Recipe no. 1. (early 1900's) |
Talcum |
94 dl |
Boric acid |
2 dl |
Magnesium carbonate |
3 dl |
Perfume |
till 1 dl |
Recipe no. 2. (early 1900's) |
Talcum |
85 dl |
Magnesium carbonate |
10 dl |
Boric acid |
2 dl |
Zinc stearate |
3 dl |
Perfume |
½ till 1 dl |
Powder (to be used after having a bath)
Recipe (early 1900's) |
Talcum |
85 dl |
Magnesium carbonate |
7 dl |
Zinc stearate |
7 dl |
Boric acid |
1 dl |
The zinc stearate is used to make the powder adhere better and to make the powder softer. The boric acid serves as an antiseptic and can be replaced by other substances such as methyl parahydroxybenzoic acid, tertiary chlorobutanol, chloro metaxylol and others. For this purpose, the latter substances are dissolved in the perfume, possibly with the addition of a little alcohol.
The magnesium carbonate makes the powder light and fluffy. The zinc stearate can be replaced by magnesium stearate, the magnesium carbonate optionally by precipitated chalk.
The dry substances are mixed in a closed mixing device, the perfume is pre-mixed with the twenty-fold amount of the powder and rubbed through a fine sieve. After this, this mixture is added to the entire amount of powder and the entire mass is sieved through a sieve. The more expensive the powder, the finer the sieve.
Rouge
Dry rouge was originally made by mixing talcum and carmine with tragacanth slime and letting the doughy mixture dry in small containers. Later, larger pieces were made and machined, for example, on the lathe to the desired shape. Today, the almost dry mixture is immediately pressed into shape.
A simple rouge consists of:
Talcum |
40 dl |
Kaolin |
35 dl |
Zinc oxide |
15 dl |
Precipitated chalk |
10 dl |
This mixture is mixed with a sufficient amount of pigment and then ground in a ball mill for several hours. The powder is then sieved through a fine silk gauze and mixed with a solution of 0.2 dl tragacanth in 4 dl water. The powder should be only slightly moist and then rubbed through a fine sieve.
After this, the material is pressed into pieces of the desired shape using a press. The metal mold is coated with a ½ pct tragacanth solution before pressing. One must be very careful with the amount of tragacanth solution that is mixed with the powder. The correct amount must be determined by small experiments, as it depends to a large extent on the material used. The same is the case with the pigments used, the hiding power of which is very different. In general, 10 to 20% is sufficient. The best species are taken for this and then a little less. In addition, one should always desire types that are absolutely harmless to the skin.
Rouge Cream
Recipe (early 1900's) |
Stearin |
24 |
.7 |
dl |
Diglicol Stearate |
12 |
.4 |
dl |
Potassium hydroxide |
1 |
.0 |
dl |
Glycerin |
3 |
.8 |
dl |
Diglycol, pure |
6 |
.8 |
dl |
Distilled water |
30 |
.1 |
dl |
Tartrazine |
0 |
.4 |
dl |
Zink oxide |
12 |
.4 |
dl |
Lacquer pigment |
6 |
.2 |
dl |
Perfume |
1 |
.0 |
dl |
Ethyl polyglycol |
0 |
.5 |
dl |
The dye is dissolved in the mixture of water, glycerin and glycol, the stearic acid and diglycol stearate are melted, added hot to the aqueous solution and mixed. The emulsion is stirred until almost cold, then mixed with the rest and finally finely ground on a roller mill.
Poudre liquide, white
Recipe (early 1900's) |
Magnesium carbonate |
1 |
|
dl |
Colloidal kaolin |
0 |
.5 |
dl |
Titanium white |
1 |
|
dl |
Aluminum Acetotartrate |
0 |
.05 |
dl |
Alcohol 90% |
10 |
|
dl |
Hamamelis water |
20 |
|
dl |
Rose water |
65 |
|
dl |
Water soluble perfume |
P. & S. |
1 |
|
dl |
Poudre liquide, Rose Chair
Recipe (early 1900's) |
Magnesium carbonate |
15 |
|
dl |
Zinc oxide |
1 |
.5 |
dl |
Salicylic acid |
0 |
.1 |
dl |
Alcohol 90% |
7 |
|
dl |
Ponceau 4R sol. 1:100 |
0 |
.1 |
dl |
Eosin 1:100 |
80 |
|
dl |
Rose water |
|
|
dl |
Perfume |
1 |
|
dl |
Lotions
Recipes (early 1900's)The various flower extracts and distillates, as well as certain fruit juices, have a very beneficial effect on the skin. They disinfect, astringent, deodorize and stimulate the skin, all without causing any damage. The good lotions therefore consist of mixtures of these juices and aqueous solutions with about 10% alcohol, sometimes also small amounts of salicylic acid to prevent spoilage.
a.
Eau d'Ylang Ylang |
30 |
|
dl |
Lavender blossom water |
20 |
|
dl |
Rose blossom water |
20 |
|
dl |
Jasmine blossom water |
5 |
|
dl |
Orange blossom water |
15 |
|
dl |
Alcohol 96 % |
10 |
|
dl |
b.
Rose blossom water |
20 |
|
dl |
Lavender blossom water |
10 |
|
dl |
Sage blossom water |
50 |
|
dl |
Alcohol 96 % |
20 |
|
dl |
c.
Lemon juice |
30 |
|
dl |
Pickle juice |
30 |
|
dl |
Rose water |
10 |
|
dl |
Alcohol 96 % |
30 |
|
dl |
d.
Tomato juice |
20 |
|
dl |
Rose water |
60 |
|
dl |
Alcohol 96 % |
20 |
|
dl |
Cold creams
Recipes (early 1900's)
Although the cold creams always react slightly alkaline, they are still used in very large quantities and form the main component of everything that is applied to the skin. A cold cream is basically an emulsion of fats in water.
The fat here is so finely distributed in water with the help of an emulsifier that the fat droplets float. Due to the fine distribution, the fat penetrates very easily into the skin and when the cream serves to supplement a shortage of fat in the skin, the fat can be absorbed very quickly.
With the creams that serve more to cleanse the skin pores, the mineral fat can, as it were, rinse out the pores.
A simple prescription for a cold cream is:
Paraffin oil |
4000 dl |
Beeswax |
800 dl |
The mixture is heated to 70℃. In addition, 45 dl borax is dissolved in 2500 dl water and the solution is heated to 70℃. The borax solution is now poured into the wash solution while stirring well. After cooling to about 50℃, the perfume is added.
In this recipe, the paraffin oil can be replaced in whole or in part by vegetable oils. In this case, a preservative must be added. The beeswax can be replaced up to half by paraffin, ceresin, ozokerite or spermaceti. Furthermore, for example, a small amount of lanolin can be added.
Cleansing cream
While in the previous creams borax was used as an emulsifier in combination with washing, with the aid of triethanolamine soaps excellent and very long-lasting creams can be manufactured.
Recipe (1936) |
Paraffin oil |
78 dl |
Bleached wax |
5 dl |
Spermaceti |
28 dl |
Tiethanolamine stearate |
20 dl |
These are melted together and slowly poured into a hot solution of 4 dl glycerin in 92 dl water. By stirring well, the two solutions soon unite into a thick cream. When the cream is well bound, add the desired amount of perfume. The next day the cream is stirred again and packaged. This cream has no tendency to exude water and remains unchanged even in hot summer weather.
Non greasy cold cream
A third type of cold cream contains glycol stearate or glycerine monostearate as an emulsifier. These creams evaporate very quickly, are more soluble in water than the previous types and cause a clear cooling of the skin due to the high water content. These creams must be packed airtight, otherwise they have a tendency to separate water.
Recipe (1936) |
Glycol distearate |
22 dl |
Vaseline |
16 dl |
Paraffin |
12 dl |
Paraffin oil |
30 dl |
Water |
100 dl |
The fats are first melted and poured into the water heated to 77℃ with good stirring at a temperature of 77℃. The cream must then remain warm for a while to allow the trapped air to escape. After this, the perfume is added and at 40 to 50℃ the cream is poured into the bottles.
Neutral cleansing cream
Recipe (1936) |
Paraffin oil |
80 dl |
Spermaceti |
30 dl |
Glycerin monostearate |
24 dl |
Water |
90 dl |
Glycerin |
10 dl |
Perfume |
|
The fats are gently melted together at 60℃ and then the hot glycerin solution is gradually added to the melted fat mixture.
Melting cleansing cream
Recipes (early 1900's)
This cream consists of a solution of vaseline and paraffin in a thin mineral oil. The cream becomes liquid at body temperature. Rubbing the cream in firmly removes the dirt from the pores.
Recipe no. 1, soft: |
Mineral oil |
56 dl |
Paraffin |
24 dl |
White petroleum jelly |
19 dl |
Recipe no. 2, medium: |
Mineral oil |
50 dl |
Paraffin |
18 dl |
White petroleum jelly |
23 dl |
Spermaceti |
9 dl |
Recipe no. 3, medium: |
Mineral oil |
50 dl |
Paraffin |
30 dl |
White petroleum jelly |
20 dl |
Recipe no. 4, hard: |
Mineral oil |
45 dl |
Paraffin |
25 dl |
White petroleum jelly |
20 dl |
Spermaceti |
10 dl |
The ingredients are melted on a water bath and mixed. About 0,5% perfume is added, the mass is poured into the boxes or flasks at the lowest possible temperature and left to stand until the mass has completely cooled.
Some other recipes from the 30's
Vanishing cream 1 |
Stearin |
240 dl |
Lanolin |
45 dl |
La Perla vanishing cream base |
100 dl |
Water |
615 dl |
Stearin and lanolin are melted together and heated at 70 to 80℃. The cream base and the water are also brought together to a temperature of 70 to 80℃. Finally, combine the two mixtures and allow to cool while stirring continuously.
Vanishing cream 2 |
Stearin |
200 dl |
Lanolin |
10 dl |
Emulsifier P&S |
60 dl |
Glycerin |
60 dl |
Water |
660 dl |
Perfume |
10 dl |
Cold cream |
Stearin |
120 dl |
Lanolin |
30 dl |
White wax |
70 dl |
Vaseline oil |
150 dl |
Emulsifier P&S |
50 dl |
Water |
570 dl |
Perfume 'Crema' |
10 dl |
Powder-cream |
Stearin |
190 dl |
Lanolin |
20 dl |
Vaseline oil |
60 dl |
Emulsifier P&S |
60 dl |
Water |
610 dl |
Talcum |
20 dl |
Titanium dioxide |
30 dl |
Perfume |
10 dl |
Cleansing cream |
Stearine |
140 dl |
Lanoline |
50 dl |
Vaseline oil |
220 dl |
La Perla cleansing cram base |
75 dl |
Water |
515 dl |
Preparation exactly as with the vanishing cream. |
Recipe 1.
One takes the cheese dust, which is made from 4½ liters of milk with the help of some rennet or by making the milk sour. The cheese dust is wrung out as dry as possible in a linen cloth and is mixed with 30 g of glycerine, 4 g of borax and 2 g of boric acid. This mixture is ground together as finely as possible in a porcelain mortar. Finally, perfume is used, for example, with 30 drops of geranium oil, 15 drops of aniseed oil and 15 drops of bitter almond oil.
Recipe 2. |
Stearic acid |
300 dl |
Cocoa butter |
40 dl |
Mineral oil |
100 dl |
Wheat starch |
550 dl |
Boric acid |
100 dl |
Water |
2100 dl |
Sodium benzoate |
5 dl |
Glycerin |
160 dl |
Ammonia 26° Bé |
30 dl |
The starch is first stirred into a thin paste with cold water. The boric acid is then added to this. While stirring well, the mixture is now heated until a thick translucent paste is formed. The mass must not burn. The glycerin and the ammonia are now mixed with the hot starch paste. Only when the mass is well-equal is the melted fat mixture, which has been heated to 93℃, added while stirring well. After this, it must be stirred well for 1½ to 2 hours. When cooling, the sodium benzoate is then added and finally 120 dl of perfume and approx. 30 dl of water-soluble red dye are added.
Hamamelis jelly
Recipe (1936) |
Boric acid |
30 dl |
Tragacanth |
60 dl |
Hamamelis water |
3500 dl |
Facial water
In general, excellent milky facial toners can be made using triethanolamine as an emulsifier, in the form of the stearate. In addition, the water then contains a solution of water-soluble slimes.
Liquid cleansing cream
Recipe (1938) |
Stearic acid |
135 dl |
Paraffin oil |
760 dl |
Water |
1140 dl |
Triethanolamine |
45 dl |
Diethylene glycol |
135 dl |
Diethylene glycol ethyl ether |
90 dl |
The fats are heated to 77℃ and mixed with the aqueous, preheated solution while stirring well. Perfume is added at will.
Skin milk
Recipes (early 1900's)
Milky beauty waters for the face are made using lanolin, cucumber milk and almond milk.
Recipe no. 1. |
Lanolin |
50 dl |
Pure soap |
3 dl |
Glycerin |
20 dl |
Rose water |
300 dl |
Benzoin tincture |
5 dl |
Perfume Bouquet |
10 dl |
Water |
612 dl |
Recipe no. 2. |
Lanolin |
30 dl |
Pure calizer |
10 dl |
Warm rose water |
200 dl |
Glycerin |
20 dl |
Perfume |
10 dl |
Benzoëtinctuur |
30 dl |
The mixture is heated on a water bath. After everything is thoroughly homogeneously mixed, 700 parts of freshly filtered cucumber juice are added while cooling. The mixture is then stirred until completely cold.
Recipe no. 3.
70 dl sweet almond kernels are finely rubbed with enough rose water to obtain a thick stiff paste. Then the following mixture is added:
Benzoin tincture |
20 dl |
Benzaldehyde |
2 dl |
Rose oil |
1 dl |
Borax |
7 dl |
and 50 dl glycerin dissolved in enough rose water to make 1000 dl.
The mixture then stands for several days and is filtered through a fine hair sieve.
Maybelline 1940s Vintage Advertisement
Liquid cleaning cream (fat-free)
Recipe (early 1900's) |
Beeswax |
1.5 dl |
Spermaceti |
6.5 dl |
Cherry kernel oil |
6.0 dl |
Glycol Stearate |
4.0 dl |
Water |
122.0 dl |
Alcohol |
3.0 dl |
Tragacanth |
1.0 dl |
Borax |
3.0 dl |
Perfume |
3.0 dl |
Glycerin |
4.0 dl |
The fats are first melted, with this the other substances dissolved in the water are mixed with good stirring and finally the perfume is added when cooling.
Liquid almond cream
Recipe (early 1900's) |
Sweet almond oil |
10 dl |
Spermaceti |
20 dl |
Beeswax |
20 dl |
Medicinal soap |
30 dl |
Borax |
20 dl |
Quince jelly |
10 dl |
Alcohol |
11 dl |
Water |
44 dl |
Spermaceti and beeswax are first melted together, the soap and borax are dissolved in the water and the two mixtures are stirred together. After this, the other ingredients are added and filtered through muslin.
Vintage Nivea advert.1938
90 g of quince seeds are soaked in 1 l of water for 24 hours. The mucus formed is squeezed through a linen cloth and mixed with ½ l of water. In addition, ½ l of Bay rum is mixed with 250 g of glycerin, 350 g of orange blossom water and 0.75 l of alcohol. The slime and this mixture are now added together and enough water is added until the total volume is 4 l.
or: |
Boric acid |
1 dl |
Glycerin |
6 dl |
These are dissolved by heating and after cooling mixed with:
Lanolin |
6 dl |
Vaseline |
8 dl |
After this, you can optionally add the desired perfume.
Hand sanitizer
Recipe (1930's) |
Paraffin oil |
70 dl |
Olive oil |
8 dl |
Triethanolamine stearate |
14 dl |
Water |
70 dl |
Perfume |
2 dl |
The fats are heated to 60℃ with the triethanolamine stearate. While stirring well, the water is then added and finally the perfume. The mixture is stirred until completely cooled. By varying the amount of water you can keep the consistency thicker or thinner.
The cleaning agent can be used without water. The hands, which are greasy from working with dirty greasy objects, for example from a car, are simply rubbed with this agent and then polished with a dry cloth. Since part of the fat is absorbed by the skin, the skin remains smooth and elastic.