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Electroplating, tin, nickel, zinc, grease removal, rust & oxide removal and more...

About electroplating (begin 1930s)

With the help of electric current we can apply a layer of another, more noble metal on one metal. This galvanizing is used for various reasons; often to make the object of a base metal more beautiful or to protect the metal of which the object is made from galling. Such thin layers of a precious metal are often used in the chemical industry in particular; the device is made of a cheap but strong metal and this metal is protected against chemical influences by a layer of silver and possibly also gold. For machine parts that are subject to heavy wear, there are currently methods that make it possible to cover the wearing surface with a very hard layer of another metal.

The metal that is electrolytically refined must be cleaned very carefully beforehand. In general, the pre- and post-treatment of the workpiece is just as important as the electrolysis itself during galvanizing.

In some cases it is possible to apply a thin layer of metal without using an electric current; however, the resulting layers only meet very moderate requirements.

Tin

Stannous chloride 15
dl
Ammonium sulfate 15
dl
Magnesium powder 3
dl
Chalk white 67
dl

Nickel

Nickel double salt 60
dl
Magnesium powder 3
dl
Chalk white 37
dl

Zinc

Zinc dust 45
dl
Ammonium sulfate 15
dl
Magnesium powder 3
dl
Chalk white 37
dl

Polishing before galvanizing

It is not possible to indicate a general method for this, as the shape and nature of the material vary too much. In practice, one automatically gets the right feeling through experience which kind of pre-treatment is the best in any particular case.

It is clear that the surface before electroplating, if a smooth glossy layer is desired, must also be as cleanly smooth if possible. Already when finishing with cutting tools, so when turning, milling and drilling, care should be taken not to make scratches that are too deep. These are first ground away with coarse grinding powder or with grinding wheels and then polished.

Objects containing large amounts of rust and solid adherent dirt are best treated first with a sandblaster, small objects can be placed in a roller drum with sand treated; for very hard material, roll with amaryl or carborundum powder. The very coarse dirt is first removed with a wire brush.

Even if the objects do not need to shine strongly after galvanizing, it is still recommended to polish them to some extent, as this makes the surface more even and the metal deposits more evenly during galvanizing. from a large number of polishes. In general, one first takes a slightly less fine and hard material to remove the scratches. The polishing material is glued to a disc of leather or wood, usually good hide glue is used as a binding agent. The rotational speed of the disc depends on the material to be polished. With very hard material and with a lot of revolutions, you should apply a little grease when polishing. Less hard metals are grinded at a lower speed.

When the scratches have disappeared, polish further with a cloth or felt disc. on which a paste is smeared, which consists of grease and a very fine polishing agent. Less hard polishing agents are used here, such as tripel, Viennese lime, polishing red (dead head) etc.

The melting point of the fat must again be adjusted to the rotational speed of the disc; for hard material so hard grease and high rotational speed, for soft metals soft greases at lower speeds. It is best to use a saponifiable fat as a binding agent for the polishing paste, as the residues can be easily removed later when cleaning with lye.

When polishing, the speed mainly depends on the composition of the discs; the better the material, the greater the number of revolutions the wheel can withstand without flying apart and the more economical the polishing. In addition, the wear of the disc material too quickly indicates that a polishing agent that is too soft has been used. People then polished with the rags and not with the paste.

In practice, a series of discs is always used for finishing objects made of hard material, such as steel. One starts with a hard disk with a slightly coarser polishing material, the next one is softer and grinds finer, then some wiping disks with paste follow. It is clear that one cannot give precise instructions for this. The best result is obtained when one has a large number of different discs in his workshop, so that one can choose the most suitable for a certain purpose.

polishing wheel

Removing grease

The biggest enemy of electroplating is grease. In most cases, the smallest amount of grease that is still present on the surface is sufficient to make the adhesion of the layer completely impossible.

All greases can be removed with the help of organic solvents. It makes no difference whether they are saponifiable or unsaponifiable. Petrol, low or higher boiling, is used for this purpose, but nowadays more and more non-flammable chlorinated hydrocarbons such as trichlorethylene or carbon tetrachloride, possibly also a mixture of these with petrol, are used. However, it is not possible to completely remove the fat in one operation; after all, some of the solution always remains on the workpiece and when the solvent evaporates, there are always traces of grease on the metal; these residues must then be washed away with clean solvent. To avoid this, devices have been constructed in which the solvent is boiled. The vapors are condensed in a cooler and the refluxing solvent then rinses the objects completely clean. In this case, a non-flammable solvent must be used. Today, trichlorethylene is commonly used, which is not as easily decomposed by trace moisture as carbon tetrachloride.

Usually, degreasing is done with caustic solutions, which dissolve the saponifiable fats, and the non-saponifiable fats and oils are emulsified in the soap solution; the solution should be as hot as possible. The solutions consist of: soap, caustic soda, potash, soda, trisodium phosphate, sodium metasilicate, sodium cyanide, borax, sodium sesquicarbonate, sodium aluminate, etc. and all possible mixtures of all these substances. Sometimes small amounts of kieselguhr or aluminum hydroxide are added, which help to clean and absorb the dirt. Here every galvanizer and seller of such articles swears by his own recipe. In general, any alkaline solution is sufficiently effective if the solution is allowed to act on the dirt for a sufficiently long time. In special cases, it is of course possible to remove the dirt more quickly with specially formulated mixtures.

While people used to work almost exclusively with calcined soda, the soda is now wholly or partly replaced by newer alkaline salts such as trisodium phosphate and sodium metasilicate, which clean better and faster because they emulsify oil and fat very easily. The caustic soda is still used, because it saponifies the fats and therefore dissolves very easily. All alkaline salts saponify fat to a greater or lesser extent. For this reason, saponifiable fats should preferably be used as binding agents for polishing pastes.

In addition, electrolytic degreasing and cleaning is already used in many cases. The object to be degreased is suspended as a cathode in a lye solution. An electric current is then passed through the solution, usually using the vessel as anode and the object as cathode. As a result, some hydrogen is evolved and certain contaminants are easily released through reduction, while caustic is also released. As a solution one can take that of any alkaline salt. The salt must be a good conductor of current and the solution must not contain any solids; these are sometimes trapped on the electrode during electrolysis.

If the objects to be degreased contain aluminium, zinc, tin or lead, the methods described above with alkaline solutions cannot be used. Lye and potash in particular should be avoided completely, as the zinc and aluminum dissolve very easily in them. During cathodic electrolytic cleaning, caustic always forms and the metals dissolve in it, while zinc is sometimes deposited on the side, as a result of which the layers applied later can easily come off. In this case, the object must be made an anode for a short time, so that the foreign metal is dissolved again.

In addition, it is possible to purify the objects electrolytically by making them an anode in certain solutions. Here the surface is cleaned because the top layer goes into solution, so it is pickled; the dirt will then come loose on its own. This method is often used for brass and copper.

A simple degreasing solution may consist of a 6 pc solution of calcined soda or a 3 pc solution of sodium metasilicate. 1% soap and 1% sodium hydroxide are then added to both solutions. The soap is not used for electrolytic cleaning.

For degreasing very large quantities, the largest amounts of grease are usually removed by boiling in a strong lye solution, the last residues are then dissolved electrolytically. Here, a treatment of 3 to 4 minutes is sufficient.

After degreasing, the objects are carefully rinsed with clean water.

Removing rust and oxides

Usually, oxides and rust are removed by dissolving them in acids. Iron and steel are usually pickled with sulfuric acid or hydrochloric acid, brass and copper with nitric acid.

When copper or brass is completely clean and polished, it is dipped for a very short time in a solution of:
Concentrated sulfuric acid 425 cm³
Strong nitric acid 75 cm³
Water 500 cm³
Brass containing large amounts of oxides is first dipped in a solution of:
Strong sulfuric acid 375 cm³
Strong nitric acid 75 cm³
Water 550 cm³
Hierdoor wordt messing mat en moet dan hierna in de eerste oplossing gedompeld worden, die het metaal weer glad beitst.
brass door hinge
Brass door hinge
For the treatment of large quantities of iron, pickling is carried out with a 10% solution of sulfuric acid (1 l strong sulfuric acid in 16 l water). If you have to process smaller quantities, it is better to take hydrochloric acid, as it works faster. The concentration must be 7 %; for this one takes 5 l of normal strong hydrochloric acid diluted with 32 l of water. The duration of the action varies, depending on the amount of rust, from a few minutes to an hour. Since the acids attack not only the oxide but also the metal, the evolved hydrogen helps to loosen rust layers. For objects that have sand included, for example from casting in molding sand, a 4 pct hydrogen fluoride solution is used.

After pickling, the objects must be rinsed carefully and immediately afterwards they are hung in the electroplating bath, with the current already switched on. The latter is necessary as in some acid baths the solution would immediately begin to dissolve some of the metal. The time the object is exposed to air between rinsing and electrolysis should be as short as possible. The cleaner the metal is, the more sensitive it is to oxidation.

In many cases, cleaning can be simplified. For example, if the metal is particularly well polished to a high gloss, pickling can often be omitted; the oxides are then already completely gone, while further oxidation has been prevented by the fats of the polishing paste. This grease is then removed with lye or solvent and electroplating can be carried out immediately afterwards. This method is often possible in chrome plating, as the highly oxidizing chromic acid burns small residues. Sometimes, however, it gives rise to serious errors.

It is not necessary to pickle on high-gloss polished brass if you add a little potassium cyanide (heavy poison) to the degreasing liquid; this potassium cyanide completely dissolves the oxide residues. However, this method cannot be used with copper.

In certain cases, pickling with acid can be the cause of serious errors. With iron, carbon can form on the surface, which prevents the layers from bonding, or hydrogen is absorbed, which makes the metal layers very brittle and also does not adhere and can be completely peeled off after some time; this used to be very common, especially in nickel plating. In recent years it has been learned to avoid these errors by completely removing the gas after pickling by electrolysis in strong sulfuric acid using the object as anode at 12 volts. They start with 5 amps per square decimetre and after 30 seconds to 10 minutes the current strength drops to virtually zero, the gas is then completely gone. Although the metal becomes passive, this does not affect the adhesion of the electrolytically applied metal layer.

Another method consists of pickling with solutions containing chromic acid or bichromates. Solutions of chrome plating that have become unusable are extremely suitable for this purpose.



Chrome plating

Chromic acid 22
dl
Chromium sulfate 5
dl
Water 100
dl
At 35 degrees Celsius with a current of 50 amps per square decimeter with a graphite cathode.
With a chromium cathode, the current is only 10 amps per square decimetre.
or:
Chromic acid 245 g per liter
Chromium sulfate 3 g per liter
Anodes: two chromium rods
Cathodes: iron
Temperature 15 degrees Celsius
Voltage: 2 to 3 Volts
time two hours.

Nickel plating

Nickel ammonium sulfate 60
dl
Nickel sulfate 30
dl
Boric acid 15
dl
Water 1000
dl
The pH of the solution is maintained at 5.8. The solution is maintained at a strength of 25 g of nickel per liter by adding from time to time as much nickel double salt to the solution as is lacking according to the analysis. The nickel anodes used must contain at least 99% pure nickel and no more than 0.3% copper. The current and voltage depend entirely on the type of objects to be nickel-plated, on average 25 amps at 6 Volts for one hour.

Nickel solution for
machine nickel plating

Nickel sulfate 30
dl
Nickel ammonium sulfate 90
dl
Magnesium sulfate 15
dl
Boric acid 20
dl
Water 1000
dl

Black nickel plating

Nickel ammonium sulfate 60
dl
Sodium sulfocyanate 15
dl
Zinc sulfate 8
dl
Water 1000
dl

Cadmium

Cyan sodium (poison) 70
dl
Cadmium oxide 22
dl
Sodium hydroxide 15
dl
Water 1000
dl
One works at room temperature with a current of 1 amps per square decimetre. Before cadmium is thoroughly degreased, pickled with acid and rinsed clean with water, then etched in sodium cyanide and rinsed clean again. It is electroplated for 20 minutes to 1½ hours, washed clean in water and dried in sawdust.

Silver plating

Recipe no. 1.
Silver cyanide 40
dl
Sodium cyanide 40
dl
Water 1000
dl

Prebath:
Silver cyanide 4
dl
Sodium cyanide 60
dl
Water 1000
dl
The articles are degreased with an alkaline solution, washed and made free of oxides with a cyanide solution, washed and then silver-plated slightly in the preliminary bath at 6 Volts. The object then enters the actual silvering solution and remains in the bath for 30 minutes at a voltage of 2 Volts. Then wash with cold and warm water, finally dry in the heat.

Recipe no. 2.
Silver cyanide 26
dl
Sodium cyanide 38
dl
Ammonium chloride 4
dl
Water 1000
dl
 of:
Silver chloride 26
dl
Ammonium chloride 4
dl
Water 1000
dl
One works at 24 degrees Celsius with ¾ to 1 Volts and ½ amps per square decimetre. With the second solution whiter silver layers are obtained. One can also use the pre-bath mentioned above with good results.
electroplating
silver plating

Blue solution for silver

Sublimate (poison) 8
dl
Sodium cyanide 45
dl
Ammonium chloride 8
dl
Water 1000
dl

Gloss solution

Silver solution 1000
dl
Sodium cyanide 240
dl
Carbon Sulfur 30
dl
Ether 30
dl
The carbon disulfide is first mixed with the ether, the sodium cyanide is dissolved in the liquid and then both solutions are mixed by long and careful shaking. At most a part of a gram of this strong solution is added per liter of bath. An excess is harmful and can be removed by heating.
Failed silver layers can be removed with a solution of:
Sodium cyanide 90
dl
Sodium hydroxide 15
dl
Water 1000
dl
Take a piece of steel plate as a cathode, with 6 to 8 V, and stir the solution well.
The silver can also be dissolved in a mixture of 5 l sulfuric acid and 1 l nitric acid, in which copper and brass hardly dissolve.
steelplate-as-cathode
Steelplate as cathode

Gold plating

Gold as fulminate or cyanide 2
dl
Sodium cyanide 15
dl
Sodium Phosphate 8
dl
Water 1000
dl
It is operated at 130° to 160°F (55 to 70°C) with 1 V voltage and pure gold as anode.

Gold chloride 75
dl
Hydrochloric acid 75
dl
Water 1000
dl
At room temperature and 2 to 3 V.

The gold chloride is first dissolved in the diluted hydrochloric acid and then the rest of the water is added. The acidity of the solution does not affect the result much; the anodes are dissolved more quickly with stronger acid. This solution is used to apply very thick layers of gold. The object is then placed in a cyanide bath for a few minutes beforehand.

Without electric current one can gild by immersing the objects in the following bath:
Gold fulminate 1 ,5 dl
Yellow blood lye salt 90
dl
Soda 180
dl
Sodium hydroxide 4
dl
Water 1000
dl
The solution is boiled in a cast iron tank. Before use, the solution is allowed to cool to 80℃. The color of the applied gold can be darkened by adding a small amount of a solution of copper carbonate in yellow blood lye salt solution to the bath.

Saltwater gold

Yellow blood lye salt 120
dl
Sodium Phosphate 60
dl
Sodium carbonate 30
dl
Sodium sulfite 15
fl
Gold as fulmiate 1 ,25 dl
Water 1000
dl
The salts are boiled with part of the water for an hour and then diluted with the rest of the water. The solution is now put in a porous pot, which is placed in a container with a saturated sodium chloride solution, which is heated to 86℃. A cylinder of zinc is now placed around the porous pot, to which a rod is attached, from which objects to be gilded can be hung. With this method, the gilding is extremely uniform in color, but the process takes longer. The electrolysis can be accelerated by additionally passing current through it. The zinc cylinder is made positive and the objects suspended in the gold solution negative. This requires a voltage of 1 to 6 V, depending on the type of work. The gold solution must be strengthened from time to time by adding a concentrated solution of the same composition.

Green gold

Gold as fulmiate


 (Cyanide) 1 ,5 dl
Silver cyanide 0 ,12 dl
Sodium cyanide 15
dl
Water 1000
dl
Temperature 40℃, 2 V, 18 carat green gold anodes. Very dark or antique gold is obtained by adding a small amount of a solution of lead carbonate in caustic soda to the solution. One then works with 5 to 6 V. The solution must be stirred during the electrolysis.

White gold

For gilding with white gold or with other types of colored gold, it is best to first prepare a solution of the specific type of gold by hanging it in a porous pot in a solution of 6 to 8% sodium cyanide and then dissolving it by electrolysis . The gold is made into an anode for this purpose. The amount of gold that has been dissolved is checked by weighing the piece of gold from time to time. When the solution contains sufficient gold, the porous pot is placed in a hot saline solution and proceeded as described above.

Pink gold

Yellow blood lye salt 30
dl
Potash 30
dl
Sodium cyanide 2
dl
Gold as fulminate 4
dl
Water 1000
dl
Temperature 80℃, 6 V. If the color should be more red, add a small amount of copper carbonate.
Cheap red gold is obtained by first treating the objects, which must be made of brass, in the following solution until a red copper layer is formed:
Copper sulfate 120
dl
Hydrochloric acid 500
dl
Water 1000
dl
If the layer is too dark red, it can be lightened slightly by dipping the object in a solution of table salt for a few seconds.

The gold is then gilded for a short time in an ordinary gold solution, the high parts are treated with a bicarbonate solution, again placed in the gold bath, but only for a few seconds, and then allowed to dry. Lacquered after drying.



Gold soldering

To remove the oxide after brazing, the workpiece is pickled in a solution of:
Sulfuric acid 90
dl
Sodium bichromate 30
dl
Water 1000
dl
The solution is used hot. The gold object is then placed as an anode in the following solution:
Yellow blood lye salt 15
dl
Sodium cyanide 60
dl
Acid potassium tartrate 15
dl
Water 1000
dl
Temperature 65° to 80°C, 6 V and lead cathodes.
luxury-gold-jewelry

Restoration of old bronze

The objects are suspended as a cathode in a bath of a 2 percent sodium hydroxide solution. Sheet iron is used as an anode. The current is allowed to continue for several hours, the current may only be weak. The oxides on the bronze are reduced to metal again, the impurities become loose and can easily be brushed off after drying. Even when the patina consists of the stubborn oxychloride, it is reduced in this way.

Iron

Ferrous Chloride 300
dl
Calcium Chloride 150
dl
Water 1000
dl
Temperature 90°C, 4 to 5 A per square decimetre, 2 to 2½ V, pH 1.5 to 2, pure iron anodes.

This bath is used to apply very thick layers. Thin layers are applied as follows: 120 g of salmiak (ammonium chloride) are dissolved in a liter of water and this solution is added to the electroplating tank. One takes: pure iron as an anode and hangs some arbitrary iron objects in the tank.

A strong current is now passed through the bath for several hours, causing iron to dissolve until the solution is sufficiently strong. The bath can be used after about 4 to 5 hours. One then works at 26°C, with 0.2 A per square decimetre and with 1 V voltage.

Lead

Lead carbonate 150
dl
Hydrogen fluoride (50%) 250
dl
Boric acid 100
dl
Glue 0,25
dl
Water 1000
dl
The hydrofluoric acid is first mixed with the boric acid and the lead carbonate is dissolved therein. The solution is allowed to cool and the precipitate is allowed to settle, the clear solution is then siphoned off and diluted. Only after this is added the glue, which was previously dissolved in hot water.

Pure lead anodes with 3 to 4 V and a current of 1 to 2 A per square decimetre are used.

For thin layers of lead, the following solution is taken:
Lead carbonate 15
dl
Sodium hydroxide 45
dl
Water 1000
dl
Temperature 80℃, 3 to 4 V and lead anodes.

Brass

Copper cyanide 30
dl
Zinc cyanide 8
dl
Sodium cyanide 45
dl
Sodium carbonate 15
dl
Water 1000
dl
Temperature 32℃, 0.3 A and 2 to 3 V, rolled brass anodes, 80 % copper and 20 % zinc.

This solution gives a pure yellow layer of brass. When the coating is to be greenish, as it is often required as an undercoat for gilding and for highly lustrous coatings in cheap jewels with imitation stones, take 30 g less of copper cyanide and 30 g of sodium cyanide and add a little ammonia to the solution.

When electroplating with brass, the temperature must be kept precisely constant. The color also depends on the current strength; too high current. deposits more zinc. The same effect can be achieved by adding ammonia or lye.

Brass on steel

Copper cyanide 30
dl
Zinc cyanide 8
dl
Sodium cyanide 45
dl
Sodium carbonate 15
dl
Sodium Potassium Tartrate 15
dl
Water 1000
dl
Temperature 25° to 30°C, 0.3 A per square decimeter, anodes consist of 80% copper and 20% zinc.
koper-messing-brons
From left to right: copper, brass and bronze

Bronze

Copper cyanide 30
dl
Zinc cyanide 4
dl
Sodium cyanide 40
dl
Sodium carbonate 15
dl
Sodium Potassium Tartrate 15
dl
Water 1000
dl
Temperature 35℃, 0.2 to 0.25 A per square decimeter, 2 to 3 V, anodes consist of 90% copper and 10% zinc. To supplement copper and zinc in use, two solutions are made, one of zinc cyanide in sodium cyanide and one of the copper cyanide separately. The two metals are never used up evenly. Through an analysis or better by assessing the color you can see which metal to add. It is a curious fact that when a zinc solution is added to the brass bath, it takes a very long time for the color to remain constant.

The sodium-potassium tartrate dissolves the oxides that form on the anodes. As a result, the electrolysis proceeds more evenly.

For the even deposition of copper and zinc in the desired ratio, the current must not be too high, the solution must contain sufficient sodium cyanide, the temperature must be high enough and the solution must not contain ammonia or caustic.

The shine of the brass and bronze layers can be increased by adding a small amount of sodium arsenite to the bath. A concentrated solution is made by dissolving 1 kg of sodium hydroxide in 2 liters of water. 500 g of arsenic (poison) is then dissolved in this by boiling and the solution is then diluted to 4 l. 30 g of this extremely dangerous, highly toxic solution is then added to 400 l of bath liquid. An excess is extremely bad, as the shine then disappears.

A bronze solution contains less and less cyanide than a brass solution. The color must be set by choosing the correct ratio of zinc to copper and by working at the correct temperature.

Copper

Two types of solutions are used in copper plating, acidic and alkaline. The acidic solutions contain copper sulfate and the alkaline ones the cyanide. The cyanide solutions are always used for copper-plating iron and steel, because the iron from the acid bath naturally releases an incoherent layer of copper.
Solution 1.
Copper cyanide 26
dl
Sodium cyanide 34
dl
Sodium carbonate 15
dl
Sodium hyposulphite 0,25
dl
Water 1000
dl
Solution 2.
Copper carbonate 40
dl
Sodium cyanide 75
dl
Sodium hyposulphite 0,25
dl
Water 1000
dl
Temperature 40℃, current 0.4 to 0.6 A, 1½ to 2 V with pure copper tin as anode.

The bath should not contain too much free cyanide, as gases will then be evolved and the copper will detach from the substrate. However, sufficient cyanide must be present to keep the anodes blank. No basic copper salts should be deposited on the anode. The dark color, which is created by the hyposulphite, may remain. The bath should contain about 20 g of copper and about 20 g of free sodium cyanide per litre.

Pockmarked copper deposits are caused by too high a carbonate content. The excess carbonate can be removed with barium chloride. The barium carbonate is allowed to settle and the clear solution is drained off. Some carbonate must remain in the solution, otherwise the precipitates become too hard.

Copper-electroplating-principle
Copper electroplating principle
(wikipedia)

Acid seller solution

Copper sulfate 210
dl
Sulfuric acid 25
dl
Water 1000
dl
Temperature 24℃, current 1 to 1.5 A, ¾ to 1 V. By stirring the bath during the electrolysis, considerably higher currents can be applied. The anode consists of pure rolled copper.

By adding a slightly alkaline lead solution to the copper cyanide solution, the luster of the copper is considerably increased. In fresh baths, the copper layer is sometimes very hard and flakes off. This can be prevented by adding 1% lye to the solution

Zinc

Acid solution
Zinc sulfate 225 ,5 dl
Ammonium chloride 15
dl
Sodium Acetate 15
dl
Water 1000
dl
Temperature 26℃, current 1.5 to 2 A, 3 to 4 V.
Alkaline solution
Zinc cyanide 30
dl
Sodium cyanide 30
dl
Sodium hydroxide 22
dl
Water 1000
dl
Temperature 38℃, current 1 to 2.5 A per square decimeter, 2 to 3 V.

Pure zinc anodes are used with both solutions. To obtain a fine structure, 10 g of glucose per liter of bath liquid are added.

The acidic solution works cheaper, but the distribution of the deposited metal is more uneven. The spreading of the acidic solution can be improved by adding a trace of stannous chloride, too much spoils the colour. The acidity should be kept at a pH of 3.5 to 4.5; the acidity can be checked with thymol blue.

In the cyanide bath the content of free sodium cyanide should be about as much as the content of zinc, an excess makes the metal layer rough.

To avoid stains, the galvanized objects must be carefully washed and dried; wash with hot water and dry in sawdust.

Metallization of non-metal

A wide variety of materials can be coated with metal by first soaking them in a 3 to 4 percent solution of hydroquinone. The objects must be thoroughly degreased beforehand. The object is then dipped in a silver nitrate solution. The hydroquinone now reduces the silver nitrate to silver, the resulting layer of silver can be polished to a metallic shine. A thick layer of metal can then be applied galvanically to this.

Turn on the bath solutions

The plating trough is filled with about one third of the entire amount of water. The water is heated to 50℃ and now the sodium cyanide and then the metal cyanides are dissolved in it. Now the other chemicals are added and finally the rest of the water.

Avoid stains

After electroplating, the objects are rinsed very carefully and then dried for several hours at 200° to 230°C. The workpiece can also be rinsed in a 1½ pct solution of tartaric acid, then with cold and hot water.

Tin plating

Sodium hydroxide 90
dl
Stannous chloride 30
dl
Sodium chloride 8
dl
Water 1000
dl
This solution is especially used for tinning small copper or brass objects. The solution is heated in an iron tank. The bottom of the tank is completely covered with granulated tin, which is obtained by pouring molten tin into water from a certain height. A grid of iron is placed on the tin.

The objects to be tinned are placed in brass baskets, separated by sheets of perforated tin. The objects remain in the boiling solution for 15 to 30 minutes, at least until they are completely tinned. After this they are cleaned with water and dried in wood sawdust.

The gloss can be increased by treating with hardwood sawdust in a roller drum for some time.

Pickling cast silver cleanly

Nitric acid 2 dl
Water 1 dl
The silver is dipped into the hot solution. The solution is stirred well.
The oxides can also be removed by treating in the following reverse flow bath:
Sodium cyanide 60
dl
Water 1000
dl
The solution should be hot, voltage 4 to 6 V, lead anodes. gloss solution:
gloss solution:
Sulfuric acid 8 dl
Nitric acid 4 dl
Water 1 dl
Hydrochloric acid a trace

Silver matte pickling

To remove the oxide after brazing, the workpiece is pickled in a solution of:
Sulfuric acid 7,2
dl
Nitric acid 5,6
dl
Zinc oxide 1,0
dl
The solution is used hot and must not be contaminated with water or chlorides. If the surface becomes too coarse, sulfuric acid is added, if it is too dull, nitric acid is added.

Silver, which has been annealed, is cleaned by placing it in a hot dilute sulfuric acid solution, 1 dl of acid to 3 dl of water. This is followed by a completely clean burning in a solution of 2 dl sulfuric acid, 1 dl nitric acid and 5 dl water. Finally, it is made shiny again in the gloss solution.

About the electroplating process (end 1930s)

Galvani discovered through a frog's leg, which came into contact with bonded copper and iron, that when two different metals are brought together with an electrically conductive liquid, an electric current is created. While Galvani thought that this phenomenon was linked to animal fluids, Volta discovered that we can make electric current with the aid of dilute acid solutions and two different metals. All current-producing elements, which used to be very common in the past, are based on this phenomenon, nowadays almost only for scientific purposes and for electric bells and flashlights.

While metal is dissolved in an electrical element, the metal can be separated from a saline solution by passing an electric current through it. Electroplating is based on this fact, i.e. the deposition of a layer of metal on another metal or on a surface made conductive.

In the year 1836, De la Rive saw that the copper, which deposited the usual elements on the copper plate at the time, could be detached from it and then microscopically showed exactly all the irregularities of the substrate, so it was a negative print. In the course of several years, the ground operations for electroplating and galvanic reproduction were now discovered. Jacobi and Spencer invented the multiplication of objects by means of electroplating, in 1840 Elkington built a factory for silver plating in Birmingham, in 1840 making conductive by means of graphite powder was discovered, in the course of the following years nickel plating, gilding and silver plating with cyanides discovered.

The technique of electroplating is now developing in two directions. In galvanostegy, one covers an object with a layer of another, usually a more precious metal, and the object becomes either more beautiful or more resistant to external influences. One thinks here, for example, of the nickel-plating and chrome-plating of iron, which is not only protected against rusting, but is and remains much more beautiful.

In addition, the purpose of galvanoplasty is to obtain a metal impression of a certain object or surface. It is clear that galvanoplasty plays a major role in graphic arts.

The preparation of the surface to be galvanized plays a major role in galvanostegy. The surface must be ground and polished smooth, ensuring that it remains absolutely clean and, above all, grease-free. In addition, the metal is also cleaned by pickling with acids. Since pickling with acids often produces extremely toxic fumes and gases, this operation must be carried out in a well-drafted fume cupboard or directly at a fan.

In galvanoplasty people like to work with shapes of metal, because they do not have to be made conductive first. For example, a low-melting alloy is poured onto woodcuts or a soft metal is pressed onto the object. Accurate molds can also be obtained by spraying metal according to Schoop.

With metal molds it must be ensured that the electroplated metal layer can also be easily removed from the substrate. To this end, a thin layer of graphite is applied, or the mold is greased slightly.

In addition, in many cases people work with non-metallic masses, for example wax, plaster, glue, celluloid and gutta percha. The surface of these prints must then be made conductive for the electric current by brushing in fine graphite powder.

When we dissolve sugar in water and we try to pass an electric current through this solution, we see that this solution still offers practically the same resistance as normal water, so it actually doesn't let anything through. However, if we dissolve the same amount of a salt, for example copper sulphate, in the water, we see that the solution obtained is an excellent conductor of the electric current. After a short time we see that copper is deposited on one wire. This principle of all galvanic techniques is based on the fact that when we dissolve a salt in water, we no longer actually have this salt, but a solution of two components of the salt, which are electrically charged. We call these two oppositely charged components of the salts ions. The magnitude of the charge is the same, otherwise the salt itself would have to be electrically charged. These ions now conduct electricity from one electrode to the other, so they carry the electrical charges through the water and release them. Once they have given off this charge, they are no longer ions, so take on normal chemical properties and separate at the electrodes. For example, we see that with copper sulfate at the cathode, the negative electrode, copper is separated, because the copper ion has released its positive charge to the negative electrode. The acid residue, i.e. the sulphate residue, is released at the anode, which, if the anode consists of copper, immediately recombines with copper to form copper sulphate and remains in solution. The end result is therefore that the copper is transported from the anode to the cathode.

Copper plating of aluminum

Trisodium phosphate 50 dl
Potassium cyanide (poison) 50 dl
Copper cyanide 50 dl
Water 1000 dl

Black nickel plating

Nickel ammonium sulfate 60 dl
Sodium sulfocyanate 20 dl
Zinc sulfate 10 dl
Water 1000 dl
The objects are carefully degreased and rinsed with water, dipped in a sodium cyanide solution (heavy poison) and nickel-plated. Then they are rinsed in cold and hot water and dried in sawdust.

Collector cleaning agent

Petroleum 12 dl
Oleic acid 10 dl
Paint gasoline 45 dl
then slowly:
Ammonia 3 dl
Spirit 2 dl
add and half of this soap with:
Tripel 28 dl
mix well. Finally add the rest.

The preparation becomes non-flammable when the petrol is replaced by carbon tetrachloride.

Collector lubricant

Tallow 24 dl
Paraffin oil 66 dl
Castor oil Ia 6 dl
Ceresin 18 dl
Graphite powder 6 dl
Copper powder 1 dl

Print of plants

The plant or plant part is first dried between tissue paper. It is then placed on a polished steel plate and a thin sheet of lead is placed on top of this. The lead is then pressed firmly onto the steel plate under a press, creating a negative imprint of the plant in the lead. This impression can then be electroplated with copper and further processed.

In the same way one can also make impressions of lace and fabric.

Fine prints can also be made with thin stanniol. The thin smooth stanniol is pressed onto the object, then molten wax is dripped onto the stanniol and allowed to cool. After cooling, the excess stanniol is cut off down to a strip and a copper wire is attached to this strip, which serves to supply the electric current during copper plating.

Copper bath for
galvanoplastic

Water 100 dl
Copper sulphate 20 dl
Sulfuric acid (pure) 3 dl
Voltage 1-1.9 V / 1-2 A per square decimetre.

Bath for
steel galvanos

Iron sulfate 100 dl
Magnesium sulfate 100 dl
Water 1000 dl
Voltage 0.5-0.55 V / 0.2-0.25 A per square decimetre.

Printing medals

Graphite 5 dl
Pork fat 2 dl
Colophonium 1,5 dl
The mass is pressed onto the object at 100°C.

Elastic Shapes:
Asphalt 6 dl
Oil foil 9 dl
Gutta-percha 20 dl

Wax molds:
Beeswax 40 dl
Venetian turpentine 6 dl
Graphite 1 dl
The object is first rubbed with some graphite and brushed, then an edge is made around the object and the molten wax mass is poured into it.

The surface of the molds is made conductive by rubbing it with graphite. This is too coarse for very fine objects, so a layer of silver is applied. For this purpose, a solution of silver oxide in ammonia is first coated, to which a solution of silver nitrate is mixed with enough ammonia to dissolve the first precipitate formed. The object is then suspended in formaldehyde vapors, whereby the silver oxide is reduced to metallic silver.




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