READ FIRST! The Metric System Table of Contents

[Home] → [Soap & Detergents: Soap & Cleaning]

Soap and Cleaning - Free recipes for homemade soaps

For the cleaning of all objects with which we come into contact in daily life, an enormous number of preparations are marketed, some of them under very fancy names, but all of which contain soap, alkalis or solvents. In most cases, soap in one form or another is the main ingredient, in a few cases it is the newly discovered salts, which have very serious properties. Solvents are rarely used for domestic purposes, almost exclusively as stain removers.

Liquid soap

One can start from a mixture of one third part coconut fat and two thirds soybean oil.
For example, one saponifies:

Soybean oil	10.75 dl
Coconut fat	5 dl
Caustic soda of 50° Bé	7.87 dl

The soap formed is dissolved in 77 dl of water, to which 0.5 dl of potash has been added.

Another soap can be made from:
Coconut fat	10.75 dl
Castor oil	5 dl
Caustic soda of 50° Bé	7.48 dl

The soap is dissolved in 76 dl of water to which 0.5 dl of potash has been added.

or:
Coconut fat	8.5 dl
Oleic acid	5 dl
Caustic soda of 50° Bé	7.3 dl

After saponification, the soap is dissolved in 77 dl of water and 0.5 dl of potash.

With this type of saponification it can be seen that, after mixing the different components, the temperature rises only very slowly.

At the low temperature, saponification proceeds very slowly, so little heat is released. As the temperature rises, the saponification process goes faster and more heat is released. It can then be seen that when the temperature of about 65℃ is reached, the temperature rises very quickly to about 85℃. At this temperature, most of the fat is now saponified and the amount of heat that is released will decrease again from now on, as there is not so much unsaponified fat left. The temperature now rises slowly to 94 to 96℃, after which the boiler contents begin to cool down. At this point only traces of unsaponified fat may be present. If there is still too much free fat in the soap, it must be saponified by vigorous stirring.

In the beginning the mass in the cauldron is very thick, then becomes more thin and with further saponification the mass becomes thick again. At this point the agitator is stopped for several minutes and the soap is examined for free fat and free lye. The soap should have a sharp acrid taste at this point on the tongue. Of course, the research can be carried out precisely in the laboratory. A small amount of soap is dissolved in water.

The solution must be completely clear; a cloudy solution indicates unsaponified fat. If you have used too little lye, you will not find any more lye in this case and you will have to add the missing lye as 30° Bé lye. The saponification is then terminated by stirring. This can occur when the caustic potash has absorbed carbon dioxide from the air due to standing too long and therefore consists partly of potash, potassium carbonate.

Finally, the soap should contain a small excess of lye.

If the excess lye is too large, the excess must be neutralized. To this end, the calculated amount of coconut fat or, better still, oleic acid is added to the soap. After about 15 minutes of stirring, one takes another test and sees whether the soap is now good.

A soap cooked in this way contains about 65% fatty acid. By diluting with three times the amount of soft water, a liquid soap with about 16% fatty acid is obtained. With a well-cooked soil soap, this liquid soap is then practically neutral. Since even the smallest amount of unsaponified fat in a liquid soap is very unpleasant, one often saponifies with an excess of lye, dilutes the soap and now neutralizes the too strongly alkaline liquid soap with sour Turkish red oil. With this, the neutralization is instantaneous and complete.

A liquid soap with less fatty acid can be made by diluting the soap with sugar solution.

natural soap with lavender

For example, one saponifies:


Palm oil	80 dl
Sunflower oil	50 dl
Caustic soda of 50° Bé	52 dl

The soap is neutralized and mixed with a solution of:

Sugar	200 dl
Potash	10 dl
Potassium chloride	10 dl
Water	1000 dl

Liquid shampoos

Colophonium WW	1.2 dl
Coconut fat	2.5 dl
Glycerin	16.2 dl
Olive oil	13.0 dl
Caustic soda of 38° Bé	9.6 dl
Water	57.5 dl

Wright's Coal Tar Soap when it still contained real coal tar

Tar soap

A tar soap is obtained by adding a tar solution to the liquid soap. The solution consists of:

Wood tar	250 dl
Sodium bicarbonate	15 dl
Water	1000 dl

The mixture is allowed to stand in a warm place for several days and then filtered. The soap is colored brown with a water-soluble brown aniline dye.

The manufacture of these shampoos, for which many other fat combinations can of course be used, is best done in an enamelled kettle that is double-walled and can be heated with steam from several atmospheres. The fats are first melted and heated to 70-80℃ and then saponified with the caustic soda of 38gr Bé. After complete saponification, the free caustic content is adjusted to 0.05 to 0.15% Na2O.

After this, the soap is diluted with condensed water or distilled water, the glycerin is added and allowed to cool.

Finally, the perfume and possibly medicines are added and the soap is placed in high reservoirs in which the contaminants can settle. The clear soap solution is then drained off after some time. The soap should be clarified at the lowest possible temperature to prevent the soap from becoming cloudy later in cold weather. In general, diluting with ½ to 1 percent potash solution produces soaps which clear easily.

Whereas in the past people had to rely on dyes supplied by the plant and animal kingdoms for coloring soaps, emulsions and similar products, today artificial dyes are made too expensive and too expensive. These have the advantage of always being delivered completely evenly, so that you always know exactly how much to add to get a certain shade.

The coloring of soap has of course no influence at all on the quality. However, such items are much easier to sell when they have an eye-pleasing appearance. Soaps intended for industry are usually left uncoloured.

Today, chlorophyll is still used here and there for greenery, which is commercially available in three types, namely soluble in water, in spirit and in oil.
However, chlorophyll is very poor in lightfastness and the dye is much too expensive in relation to the aniline dyes that can replace it. Natural dyes are also used in some cases for red and yellow, for example: carmine, kermes, curcuma and alkannine.

For some types of soap, pigment is still used for coloring, i.e. insoluble dye. Of course, these must not discolour even under the influence of alkali. They are ultramarine blue, vermilion and iron oxide red.

The solid, almost anhydrous soaps can be colored with dyes that are soluble in water or in oil, the liquid soaps are always colored with water-soluble dyes. The amount needed is usually very small. It should not be forgotten that the dye in the soap is simply dissolved and is not chemically bonded as is the case with the dyeing of fabrics. Soap with too much dye will come off.

The following dyes are used: rhodanine, cyanine green, metanil yellow, alizarin blue, Bismarck metanil yellow, alizarin blue, Bismarck brown, fluorescein, violamine, acid violet, etc. Now the colors are slightly different depending on the factory that makes the dyes. In general, the dye is ordered stating the desired shade and exactly the purpose for which the dye is to be used. This alone makes it possible to always get the right kind. The dye manufacturers know exactly for what purposes a certain type of dye is suitable.

Liquid hand washing soap

Soaps are made for washing very dirty hands, to which solvents for grease are added. These types of soaps are very popular in garages and factories, for example. Those with pine oil are also disinfectant. Usually one starts with a pure coconut soap, sometimes mixed with another vegetable oil soap, and diluted with as much water as corresponds to the price. When liquid soap is strongly diluted with water, spirit, sugar or glycerin must be added to lower the freezing point, otherwise the soap cannot be transported in winter. Moreover, with these additions, the soap remains better in solution and the soap therefore remains clear.

Pine oil soap
Coconut fat	160 dl
Potassium hydroxide (89%)	46 dl
Pine Oil	40 dl
Water	754 dl

The coconut fat is heated to 80-85℃. The potassium hydroxide is dissolved in enough water to obtain a 20 percent potassium hydroxide solution. Half of the lye is now added to the heated fat while stirring. kept at 80 to 85℃ for up to 3 hours with good stirring.
The solution is finally well cooled and filtered cold. After this, the pine oil is slowly mixed with the soap solution while stirring.

Liquid household soap with pine oil
Oleic acid (acid number 194)	61.6 dl
Colophony (acid number 165)	61.6 dl
Sodium hydroxide 85%	18.7 dl
Pine Oil	133.0 dl
Trisodium phosphate	26.7 dl
Water	700.8 dl

The oleic acid and the rosin are melted together and heated to 80℃. The sodium hydroxide is dissolved in enough water to make a 20 percent sodium hydroxide solution and half of the lye is added to the fatty acid resin mixture. The rest of the water, in which the trisodium phosphate has been dissolved, is added to the soap emulsion, all while stirring well. The temperature is now lowered to 60℃ and the rest of the lye is added while stirring vigorously. Stirring is continued for 15 minutes. After everything is completely saponified, the pine oil is added and stirred well for a few more minutes.

This liquid soap is relatively dark in color, depending on the quality of the fatty acid and the resin, however, it is extremely suitable for cleaning linoleum, rubber floors, terrazzo and painted floors.

The soap removes greasy residues very easily, removes unpleasant odors and does not affect paint and other materials. The soap is very cheap to manufacture and is also cheap to use. About 100 to 150 g are mixed in a bucket of hot water.

Soap powder with pine oil
Oleic acid (acid number 195)	50 dl
Colophonium (s.get. 165)	50 dl
Sodium hydroxide (100 pc)	13.3 dl
Pine Oil	100 dl
Soda (58 pc)	737 dl
Water	4.7 dl

The oleic acid and rosin are melted together and heated to 80℃. The sodium hydroxide is dissolved in the water. At 60℃ the acid mixture is now saponified with the lye. After adding the entire amount of lye, stir gently until everything is saponified. After this, the soap is dissolved in the pine-oil by adding the pine-oil to the soap and then mixing the soda with the soap in a mixing device.

This soap powder is extremely suitable for cleaning dirty greasy floors, as is often the case in garages and factories. Concrete floors in particular become very clean with this. In addition, the smell of the pine oil, which lingers, is not unpleasant. Less pleasant smells are covered by the scent of the pine oil. Moreover, this soap powder does not make the floor slippery.

The powder can be sprinkled on the floor. After this, it is wetted with a watering can or a water hose and then scrubbed with a broom or the powder is dissolved in warm water.

Household soap
Manila Coconut Fat	50 dl
Stearic acid	450 dl
Sodium hydroxide solid	75 dl

The fats are melted and the solid caustic is dissolved in water to a solution with an s.g. of 1.116 is obtained. The lye is now slowly added to the melted fat and the whole mass is brought to a boil. As the lye is absorbed by the fat, the lye is gradually added until all the fat has been saponified. The soap is then salted out with solid table salt, boiled again and pressed into pieces. If the soap is too hard, use a little more coconut fat. After all, the soap contains about 30% water.

Vintage

Vinola Otto Toilet Soap

Concentr. liquid soap for washing silk
Water	55 dl
Potassium hydroxide	5 dl
Glycol	20 dl
Oleic acid	20 dl
The potassium hydroxide is dissolved in the water and mixed with the glycol. The solution is heated to boiling and the oleic acid is carefully added. The soap is neutralized until it reacts neutrally to phenolphthalein.

Saddle Soap
Beeswax	500 dl
Potassium hydroxide	80 dl
Water	800 dl
These are boiled together for 5 minutes until the wax is saponified. In addition, 160 dl Castilian soap is dissolved in 800 dl hot water and the two soap solutions are mixed while stirring well. Finally, 1200 dl turpentine oil is added.

Castor oil soap
Potassium Hydroxide 80%	25 dl
Spiritus 96%	25 dl
Castor oil	100 dl
The spirit is heated on a water bath and the solid potassium hydroxide is dissolved in it. Add the castor oil and stir well. An opaque jelly is obtained, which becomes completely translucent when left in a warm place. With the help of this soap you can make a make an excellent eresol soap solution by adding to the above quantity 142 dl of cresol and then enough water so that the entire quantum weighs 300 dl.

Hand detergent
A soap, which is used without water, can consist of:
Agar agar	2 dl
Psyllium	3 dl
Glycerin	50 dl
Calcinated Soda	50 dl
Soft Soap	50 dl
Ammonia	25 dl
Eau de Javelle	5 dl
Water	815 dl

Pumicite soap for artisans
Stearic acid	100 dl
Caustic soda of 32 Bé	54 dl
Calcinated Soda	10 dl
Water	836 dl

and as much pumice as is absorbed.
or:

Water	2000 dl
Hard Soap	650 dl
Glycerin	70 dl
Borax	180 dl
Calcinated Soda	10 dl
Calcinated Soda	90 dl
Pumicite Powder	1000 dl
Safrol some tenth percent
The soap is dissolved in two thirds of the water, the other ingredients in the rest of the water. The two solutions are then mixed. As soon as the mass starts to thicken, add the pumice stone powder. By taking more water you can make the paste softer. You can't add water later. With a few percent methylhexaline you get a soap that cleans even the dirtiest hands in a very short time. However, the smell is not very pleasant.

Soap powder [1]
Resin Soap	5 dl
Oleic acid soap	5 dl
Pine Oil	10 dl
Calcinated Soda	75 dl
Water	5 dl
The soap is dissolved in the water and the pine oil. The fine calcined soda is now added to the soap solution with constant stirring. Finally, the entire mass is rubbed through a sieve. This soap powder is especially used for cleaning granite, marble, tiles and concrete, as the powder dissolves all greases easily.

Wipe Powder
Sand	10 dl
Sawdust	3.5 dl
Salt	1.5 dl
Paraffin oil	1 dl
The substances are carefully mixed. or:
Sand	35 dl
Sawdust	40 dl
Paraffin oil	15 dl
Water (possibly colored)	10 dl
Instead of sand, you can also take other ground sharp substances. The oil can be added as an emulsion, while disinfectants can also be added. Sometimes naphthalene is added, while the unpleasant smell of lubricating oil is covered with added eucalyptus oil or sassefras oil.

Soap for dry cleaning
Oleic acid (distilled)	10 dl
20 pc caustic potash in spirits	10 dl
Carbon tetrachloride	50 dl
The oleic acid is neutralized with the alcoholic potassium hydroxide solution and the soap is mixed with carbon tetrachloride. This soap solution is used to remove stains. The treated garment must then be washed with petrol or carbon tetrachloride. A non-alkaline soap for the same purpose, i.e. for very sensitive fabrics, is obtained by dissolving 130 parts of diglycol oleate in 28 dl of tetraline and 30 dl of naphtha.

Solvent for dry laundry
Glycololeate	2 dl
Carbon tetrachloride	60 dl
Petrol	18 dl
Petroleum distillate	20 dl

Cleansing cream
Coconut soap	5 dl
Ammonia	8 dl
20-pc potash solution	4 dl
Water	13 dl
The soap is dissolved in 10 dl of water. After this, the ammonia and the potash solution and the rest of the water are added. This soap cream is now mixed with as much petrol as is necessary to remove the grease stains from clothing.

Cleaning Solution
Ammonia spirit	20 dl
Ether	50 dl
Petrol	150 dl
Lavender oil	5 dl
Soapwood tincture	225 dl
Spiritus	500 dl

Cleansing cream
Ammonium Oleate	2 dl
Ammonia	2 dl
Ether	1 dl
Petrol	5 dl
Chloroform	1 dl
De ammoniak en de zeep worden eerst gemengd. Aan de oplossing voegt men eerst ether, dan de benzine en tenslotte de chloroform toe, alles goed schudden.

Vintage Scotland's Soap
poster by Jean de Paleologue 1893

Antiseptic detergent
Triaethanolamine stearate	5 dl
Purified Petroleum	16 dl
Carbolic acid	1 dl
Boiling water	45 dl
The stearate is dissolved in the petroleum by heating. The boiling water is added to the solution with vigorous stirring and finally the carbolic acid.

Nitro cleaner for gun barrels
Amyl Acetate	4 dl
Benzole	4 dl
Pure lubricating oil	8 dl
Cleaning cotton or work moistened with this solution is pulled through the gun barrel until the cotton remains completely clean. A thin layer of oil remains in the barrel.

Vintage Lifebuoy Desinfecting Soap

Dry cleaning fluid
Butyl glycol ether	1 dl
Diglycol oleate	1 dl
Water	1 dl
Isopropyl alcohol	10 dl
Carbon tetrachloride	14 dl

Dry Cleaning Solvent (non-flammable)
Naphtha, kpt. 90-150℃	40 dl
Carbon tetrachloride	60 dl
or:
Pure trichlorethylene	800 dl

Cleaning products in the household
Soap in powder	2 dl
Calcinated Soda	3 dl
Trisodium phosphate	40 dl
Quart flour	55 dl

Solvent for clogged pipes
Potassium hydroxide (dry ground)	99 dl
Aluminum powder	1 dl

Bleach cleaner (Eau de Javelle)
Bleaching powder	20 dl
Calcined soda	20 dl
Water	400 dl
Stir well when mixing. Allow to settle overnight, siphon off the clear liquid the next day.

Laundry blue (liquid)
Berlin Blue	1 dl
Distilled water	32 dl
Oxalic acid (poison)	¼ dl

Laundry blue
Ultramarine Blue	35 dl
Aniline blue water soluble	1 dl
Calcinated Soda	10 dl
Calcinated Soda	30 dl
Syrup	7 dl
Deze bestanddelen worden met weinig water tot een stijve pasta gemengd, in vormen geperst en gedroogd (kogeltjes blauw)

Acid for the laundry
Oxalic acid (poison)	3 dl
Water	24 dl
The mixture is heated until the acid is completely dissolved. After this is added:
Acetic acid (56%)	8½ dl
For 100 kg of laundry, ½ l of this acid is added to the rinse water, which prevents the precipitation of insoluble limescale on the laundry.

Cleaning agent for window panes
Hard Soap	2 dl
Water	5 dl
Chalk White	7 dl
Tripel powder	2 dl
Petroleum distillate	5 dl
The soap is dissolved in the hot water, then the kerosene is added, shaken well and the emulsion mixed with the solids. By adding more water and petroleum, the mass can be made more fluid.

Soap powder [2]

Pure soap	20 dl
Sulfite lye powder	40 dl
Calcinated Soda	40 dl

Self-bleaching soap powder [1]

Pure soap	20 dl
Sulfite lye powder	40 dl
Calcinated Soda	30 dl
Sodium Perborate	10 dl

Salmiac bleach powder

Soap	15 dl
Sulfite lye powder	40 dl
Calcinated Soda	44 dl
Salmoniac	1 dl

Methylhexaline soap

Coconut fat	100 dl
Caustic soda 38° Bé	dl
Methylhexaline	dl

Garage soap

Coconut fat	100 dl
Caustic soda 38° Bé	50 dl
Pumicite Powder	10 dl
Methylhexaline	6 dl

Cyclonol soap

Coconut fat	100 dl
Caustic soda 38° Bé	50 dl
Cyclonol	8 dl

Soap extract

Pure soap (soft)	60 dl
Cyclonol	10 dl
Water	20 dl
Spiritus	5 dl
Tetralin	5 dl

Liquid cyclonol soap

Oleic acid	20 dl
Solid potassium hydroxide	5 dl
Water	45 dl
Spiritus	10 dl
Cyclonol	10 dl
Glycol	10 dl

Cresol soap

A mixture of equal parts soft soap and tar oil cresol is heated on a water bath, stirring well, until the mass is completely homogeneous. For making large quantities it is more economical to make the soap and add a small amount of cresol during saponification. This keeps the soap liquid. Then the rest of the cresol is added. It is not even necessary to saponify the oil completely, as the saponification ends automatically when standing.

By replacing part of the cresol with chlorine compounds of the phenols, e.g. by parachlorophenol or bromo-o-cresol, disinfects the soap considerably better and in larger dilutions.

Formaldehyde soap

Coconut fat	30 dl
Caustic potash	8 dl
Water	20 dl
Spiritus	10 dl
Formaldehyde 40%	35 dl

The coconut fat is saponified with the solution of the lye in water and spirit at moderate heat. By stirring well, the saponification proceeds very quickly. As soon as the mass has the appearance of a starch paste, add the formaldehyde and stir until an even solution has been obtained.

The soap can be perfumed with a little lavender oil.

Hard soap bleach

Sodium bisulphite	700 dl
Zinc dust	135 dl
Sulphuric acid 40%	700 dl
Cold water	6000 dl

The sulfuric acid is first diluted, for which purpose the strong acid is carefully poured into the water with stirring; especially not vice versa. The diluted acid is then allowed to cool.

Now the water is placed in a vessel, the sodium bisulphite is added and stirred until the salt is dissolved. The sulfuric acid is then poured into the vat and finally the zinc dust is added. The whole is stirred well and immediately added to the hot soap to be bleached.

Soft soap is better bleached with sodium hydrosulphite.

Linox Soap vintage advertisement

Tooth soap [1]

Med. potash soap	300 dl
Glycerin	60 dl
Burned magnesia	5 dl
Sodium bicarbonate	40 dl
Peppermint Oil	10 dl

Liquid tooth soap

Olive oil	70 dl
Potassium 38° Be	35 dl
Alcohol	280 dl
Glycerin	230 dl
Water	350 dl
Perfume	35 dl

The olive oil is first saponified with the lye, and 40 dl alcohol is added to the lye. Then the warm glycerin and the water, after cooling add the remaining alcohol and the perfume.

Tooth soap [2]

Pure beef tallow	7000 dl
Caustic soda 38° Bé	3250dl
Potassium 20° Bé	500 dl
Ocher	500 dl
Burnt umber	125 dl
Prescribed Chalk	1500 dl
Hot water	2000 dl
Peppermint Oil	150 dl
Clove oil	25 dl

The fat is melted on a water bath and the preheated lye is added very slowly at 75°C. After this, stir for another quarter of an hour, and then leave the kettle in the heat. A small kettle is insulated with cloths or kept warm on a water bath. Meanwhile, the other ingredients are mixed well and, if possible, finely ground on a paint mill. After this, the soap is stirred again and then mixed with the chalk paste. The soap is now put in a mold and left overnight. The next day the soap is cut into suitable pieces. The pieces are allowed to dry for 12 hours and then packed in stanniol.

Gall soap

Coconut fat	20 dl
Caustic soda 38 Bé	10 dl
Evaporated ox gall	4 dl

For the 4 dl of evaporated bile, you should start with 25 dl of fresh bile, evaporate it, add 1 dl of glycerine and filter through a linen cloth.

The coconut fat is mixed with the lye while warm. Once the fat is well emulsified with the lye, add the bile and stir until the soap is thick. Then let it stand in a mold.

Shaving soap [1]

Beef Fat	20 dl
Castor oil	1 dl
Coconut fat	4 dl
Caustic soda 35° Bé	10 dl
Potassium 22° Bé	6 dl
Potassium solution 22° Bé	3 dl

Het mengsel der vetten wordt op 50°C verwarmd, de loog en de potasoplossing worden gemengd en nu voegt men de loog zeer langzaam bij het vet. Dit toevoegen moet zo voorzichtig geschieden, dat de toegevoegde hoeveelheid loog onmiddellijk door het vet opgenomen wordt. Er mag zich geen loog of vet afscheiden. Zodra de zeep doorzichtig is, kan men parfum toevoegen en de massa in vormen gieten.

Het parfum kan uit 140 dl thijmolie, 80 dl kummelolie en 40 dl bergamotolie bestaan. Hiervan voegt men 0,25 % toe.

Shaving cream

Olive oil	30 dl
Oleic acid	15 dl
Coconut fat	5 dl
Potassium 24° Bé	30 dl
Potassium solution 24° Bé	15 dl
Caustic soda 36° Bé	10 dl

De olie wordt op 60°C verwarmd en met de loog gemengd. Hierna laat men de ketel enige uren warm staan (eventueel isoleren) en roert dan weer goed door. De zeep moet enige weken blijven staan.

Shaving soap without foam

Coconut fat	20 dl
Pork fat	15 dl
Potassium hydroxide	25 dl
Triaethanolamine	13 dl
Borax	3 dl
Distilled water	145 dl

The fat is saponified with the potassium hydroxide and then the triethanolamine is added. After this is added:

Glycerin	100 dl
Stearin
Glycerin Monostearate	40 dl
Distilled water	400-500 dl

The cream is left to stand for some time and then finely ground on a roller mill.

Liquid shaving soap

Oleic acid	19,	5	dl
Coconut fatty acid	3		dl
Casino fatty acid	1		dl
Potassium 50° Be	10		dl
Spiritus	5		dl
Distill. water	45		dl

The fatty acids are melted together in a copper kettle and heated to 75°C. In addition, the lye is placed with 25 dl of water in another kettle and the solution is heated to boiling. While stirring well, the fatty acids are now added to the boiling lye, the saponification proceeds almost instantaneously. The alkalinity is checked with phenolphthalein, the rest of the water is added and boiled for a moment. The excess lye is now neutralized with Cimol-neutral RF, about 1 dl. For this you can also take Turkish red oil, for every 50mg KOH about 1g 100 pct Turkish red oil. The soap is allowed to cool slightly, the alcohol and the perfume are added and the soap is left to stand quietly for about 3 weeks. After this, the soap is filtered.

Perfume for shaving soap
Lavender oil	350 dl
Lavandin	200 dl
Phenylethyl Alcohol	200 dl
Palmarosa Oil	50 dl
Geranium Oil (Afr.)	100 dl
Fixol Lavender	100 dl

Shaving soap [2]

Stearic acid	62.0 dl
Premier gravy	62.0 dl
Pure tallow	132.5 dl
Coconut fat	61.0 dl
Potassium 39° Be	88.5 dl
Caustic Soda 39° Be	85.0 dl
Cimol RF	10.0 dl
Triaethanolamine	5.0 dl
Lanolin	5.0 dl
Sodium thiosulfate solution
4:1 distilled water	2.5 dl

The fats are melted and heated to 65°C. Then the lye, which was previously heated to 35[deg.] C., is added. The resulting emulsion is now allowed to stand for about 2 hours, care being taken to keep the mass warm. The triaethanolamine is then added, a sample of the soap is dissolved in alcohol and phenolphthalein is added. The soap should be weakly alkaline. If it still contains too much lye, a little stearic acid is added. After this, the soap is neutralized with the cimol or made slightly acidic. Shortly before pouring the soap into molds, the lanolin and thiosulphate solution are added and stirred well. Finally, the soap is dried.

The soap is further improved by adding 3% of the following mixture:

Emulgine, Givaudan	40 dl
White Vaseline	160 dl
Lanolin	200 dl
Cetyl alcohol	20 dl
Ceresin	40 dl
Glycerin	40 dl
Vaseline oil	160 dl
Distilled water	1000 dl
Methyl Cellulose Juice 25	200 dl
Distilled water	1800 dl

The fats are melted at 50-60°C and mixed with the distilled water previously heated to 50°C until a uniform emulsion is obtained. The methylcellulose is poured over with the boiling water, left to stand overnight and the cooled solution is added to the emulsion, which has been stirred until cold.

Shaving soap can also be improved by adding 50 g of menthol to 100 kg of soap, which has been previously dissolved in 100 g of alcohol. has to add. The menthol gives a cooling sensation and removes the tingling of the soap.

Hard potash soap for the textile industry

Coconut oil fatty acid	30 dl
Groundnut oil fatty acid	20 dl
Tallow fatty acid	50 dl
Potassium solid	approx. 20 dl
Water	approx. 40 dl

The correct amount of lye must be calculated by determining the saponification number of the fatty acid mixture. One saponifies in a double-walled kettle, first filling the lye into the kettle and adding some ready soap and heating to boiling. Now the fatty acids, which must be heated to 80°C, are added in a thin jet. At the end of the saponification, the excess caustic is determined by titration with phenolphthalein and adjusted to 0.1%. Whether the mass is completely saponified is determined by taking a sample from the kettle and dissolving it in absolute alcohol; this solution must remain clear, even after adding some ammonia. It is ensured that the soap contains so much water that it contains 65% fatty acid. The soap can be further improved by adding a few percent solvent, for example:

Tetraline	2 dl
Methylhexaline	3 dl
or:
Turkish red oil	1 dl
Hexaline	3 dl
Carbon tetrachloride	1 dl

Soap industry Netherlands (Woudt Zaandam)

Improve toilet soap

Soap that becomes too hard and brittle can be improved by adding 1-5% casein solution.

Casein	160 dl
Water	590 dl
Borax	16 dl
Water	80 dl
Boric acid	4 dl

The casein is stirred with the first portion of water and then the mixture is allowed to stand overnight. The borax is dissolved in the second quantity of water and the two solutions are now mixed. The mixture is heated on a water bath to 70°C until the casein is completely dissolved. After about 2 hours, the boric acid is added and further:

Wool grease (anhydrous)

150 dl

previously heated to 60°C. The mass is now stirred cold.

Soap that tends to go rancid is mixed with 2% of the following product:

White Beeswax	300 dl
Lanolin	400 dl
White vaseline oil	390 dl
Water	300 dl
Borax	17 dl
Sodium thiosulfate	690 dl
Water	200 dl

The fats are melted and emulsified with the hot borax solution at 90°C. It is allowed to boil for a while and then the thiosulfate, which has been previously dissolved in the 200 dl of boiling water, is added. The paste is stirred until completely homogeneous.

Hand cleaning agent

Especially ink stains and stains from dyes are easily removed with the following agent:

Soft Soap	25 dl
Hexaline	1 dl
Carbon tetrachloride	3 dl
Paint Petrol	3 dl
Glycol	1 dl
Hydrogen Peroxide 10%	3 dl
Marble powder	64 dl

Disinfecting soft soap

Linseed oil fatty acid	40 dl
Pine Oil	25 dl
Water	15 dl
Potassium 50° Be	8 dl
Caustic Soda 36° Be	12 dl

By heating the mixture moderately, a translucent soft soap is obtained, which can be made more viscous by adding 15 to 30 dl of water.

Medicinal potash soap

Linseed oil	43 dl
Potassium 50° Be	approx. 17 dl
Alcohol 96%	5 dl

The linseed oil is heated in a kettle heated with steam and the lye is mixed with the alcohol. If necessary, add some water. It should be added in such a way that a good emulsion is formed. Now it is heated, possibly by introducing steam, until the saponification begins. After completion of saponification, the soap must dissolve completely clear in water. A solution of 10 g of soap in 30 cm³ alcohol of 96% must be added after adding 0.5 cm³ normal hydrochloric acid remain clear and should not turn red with phenolphthalein.

Medicated soap

Lard	50 dl
Olive oil	50 dl
Caustic soda s.g. 1.17	120 dl
Spiritus	12 dl
Water	200 dl
Cooking salt	25 dl
Soda	3 dl
Water	80 dl

The fats are heated with the lye and the spirit on a water bath until the mass has become homogeneous, after which the 200 dl of water is added. It is further heated on a water bath until the fats are completely saponified (soluble in alcohol). If necessary, a small amount of the same lye is added.

Now the soap is salted out with the solution of table salt and soda in 80 dl water, after which the mass is allowed to cool. The hard soap is now washed with little water and squeezed out, cut into pieces, dried and finely ground.

Disinfecting soap perfume

Liquid isothymol	600 dl
Spiral oil	200 dl
Citronel oil	100 dl
Synth.geranium oil	50 dl
Benzylideneacetone	20 dl
Resionoid styrax	30 dl
or:
Liquid isothymol	800 dl
Citronel Oil	50 dl
Methylvaniline	100 dl
Diphenylmethane	50 dl

Glycerin soap

Beef Fat	30 dl
Coconut fat	30 dl
Castor oil	20 dl
Caustic Soda 38° Be	40 dl
Glycerin	20 dl
Alcohol 96%	30 dl
Sugar solution 40%	20 dl
Perfume	1 dl
The perfume can consist of:
Geranium oil	400 dl
Lavender oil	190 dl
Sapofixin rose	10 dl
Patschoelie oil	5 dl

Hand cleansing cream

Methylcellulose S 400	14.3 dl
Alcohol	5.5 dl
Glycerin	5.5 dl
Lanolin	0.3 dl
Mentol	0.1 dl
Nipagine	0.3 dl
Water	74.0 dl

Excessive soap

Toilet soap	98 dl
Lanettewas U	2 dl
Shaving soap and medicated soap can also be improved by adding a few percentages of lanette wax.

Sulfur soap

Toilet soap or medicated soap	98 dl
Sulphur emulsion Viosulfal	2 dl
The emulsion is mechanically mixed with the soap, the soap is then pressed into pieces in the usual way.

Sea water soap

Coconut fat	50 dl
Caustic Soda 30° Be	60 dl
Water glass 38° Be	20 dl
Turkish red oil	5 dl
Potass solution 30° Be	dl

Almond bran soap

Ground Soap	8500dl
Ground almond bran	150 dl
Geranium Oil Bourbon	20 dl
Mellilone	2 dl
Bitter almond oil	10 dl
Muscus (artificial)	2 dl

Oatmeal soap

Ground Soap	9500 dl
Oatmeal	500 dl
Borax	100 dl
Terpineol	40 dl
Muscus (artificial)	2 dl
Aubépine	14 dl
Neroli Oil	4 dl
Heliotropin	3 dl
Clove oil	3 dl

Cedarwood Soap

Ground Soap	9500 dl
Cedar Wood Powder	300 dl
Violet root powder	200 dl
Cedarwood Oil	30 dl
Geranium oil	30 dl
Heliotropin	4 dl
Muscus (artificial)	8 dl
Guajachout oil	10 dl
Aubépine	4 dl

Sandalwood soap

Ground Soap	9500 dl
Sandalwood Powder	500 dl
Sandalwood oil	40 dl
Geranium oil	40 dl
Geranium Oil Bourbon	20 dl
Mellilone	1 dl
Neroli Oil	4 dl
Patchouli Oil	2 dl
Muscus (artificial)	6 dl
Resinoid iris	6 dl

Sawdust soap

Ground Soap	9500 dl
Quart flour	200 dl
Sawdust	1000 dl
Lanolin	100 dl
Palmaro oil	40 dl
Cedarwood Oil	10 dl
Cassia oil	10 dl
Lavandol	10 dl

This soap is suitable for cleaning dirty hands. The perfume can of course be replaced by any other combination or omitted altogether.

Car and furniture cleaner

Oleic acid	4 dl
Sodium hydroxide	1 dl
Carnauba wax	10 dl
Pine Oil	15 dl
Water	70 dl

The oleic acid is first saponified with a little water and the lye, then the carnauba wax is added at 90°C with the pine oil. Finally, dilute with the rest of the warm water while stirring well.

Cleaning agent for dishes

Sodium metaphosphate	40 dl
Trisodium phosphate	15 dl
Sodium metasilicate	40 dl
Sodium hydroxide	5 dl

The agent is added to dishwashing water in quantities of 10 to 30 g per litre. It is especially suitable for use in hotel dishwashers.

Cleaner for window panes

Soapwood powder	1,	5	dl
Sulphuric acid 66° Be	10		dl
Copper sulfate	0,	02	dl
Water	90		dl

The soapwood is boiled with water and filtered. The cooled filtrate is mixed with the sulfuric acid, the copper sulphate added and then diluted to about 100 dl with water. With the help of tripel one can make a paste.

Cleaner for rubber floors

Oleic acid	8 dl
Triaethanolamine	3 dl
Water	30 dl
Spindle oil	40 dl

The triethanolamine is dissolved in the water and the acid added. Then heat until a uniform soap solution is obtained. Now the spindle oil is slowly added and stirred until the emulsion is homogeneous.

Cleaner for facades

Trisodium phosphate	75 dl
Sodium metaphosphate	20 dl
Turkish red oil	3 dl
Sodium hydroxide	2 dl

So much of the powder is dissolved in the water that the walls can be easily sprayed clean.

Self-bleaching soap powder [2]

Pure soap	24 dl
Soda water glass	8 dl
Soda	27 dl
Water	30 dl
Sodium Perborate	10 dl

Liquid salmice soap

Linseed oil	25 dl
Pine Oil	30 dl
Turpentine oil	10 dl
Water	17 dl
Potassium 50° Be	10 dl
Spirit of salmiak s.g. 0.950	8 dl

The linseed oil and the pine oil are mixed and saponified with water and the lye at moderate heat. The turpentine oil is then added, allowed to cool and then mixed with the ammonia.

This soap is especially suitable for washing hands in tar factories. You can also replace the turpentine oil with pine oil and possibly add fine sand or pumice powder to the soap.

Bleach soda

Tylose juice 25	2 dl
Water	48 dl
Water	50 dl
Soda water glass 39° Be	15 dl
Calcinated Soda	200 dl

The methylcellulose is dissolved in the first portion of water by pouring it over with the boiling water and leaving overnight. This solution is then mixed with the second quantity of water, the water glass is added and now the soda is gradually added over a period of 10 minutes. A wet salt is obtained, which is left to lie on the floor in a thin layer for another day, with repeated stirring. It is then ground.

The wax is soaked with a solution of this salt, which already removes a large part of the dirt.

Wiping powder

Sea Sand	40 dl
Loamy sand	25 dl
Silica gel	10 dl
Fine wood flour (soft)	20 dl
Ground rock salt	10 dl
Chlorine Calcium	7 dl
Lysol	3 dl
Glycerin	2 dl

disclaimer | w3schools | GFDL | GoodFon.com | pixabay | lookandlearn.com | pexels |pinterest | pxhere.com | unsplash.com
Test
We decline all responsibility with regard to errors in the information, in the translation, possible harmfulness of mentioned substances and possible harmful consequences of working with these substances or of following the translated recipes on this website. For more information you read the disclaimer.
copyright © 2023 -
mixandstir.com - all rights reserved

Soap and Cleaning - Free recipes for homemade soaps

Liquid soap

For example, one saponifies:

Liquid shampoos

Tar soap

Liquid hand washing soap

Pine oil soap

Liquid household soap with pine oil

Soap powder with pine oil

Household soap

Concentr. liquid soap for washing silk

Saddle Soap

Castor oil soap

Hand detergent

Pumicite soap for artisans

Soap powder [1]

Wipe Powder

Soap for dry cleaning

Solvent for dry laundry

Cleansing cream

Cleaning Solution