If you want to make wine from fruit other than grapes, you will almost always have to make the juice suitable for fermentation. The yeast you add must be able to convert the fermentable sugars into alcohol and carbon dioxide.
Yeast cells love tomato paste. Take a can of double concentrated tomato paste without salt (perfect nutrient) and add 1 or more teaspoons to your fermenter. Especially if the fermentation is difficult to get started.
Boiling water can also be useful for disinfecting spoons and can replace sulphite.
Most commercial wines contain added sulfites. If you work clean, this is not necessary at all. So don't add it to your homemade wine.
So only use sulphite as a disinfectant for your bottles and tools. Not as a preservative because that's what the alcohol and any tannins present in the wine are for.
You can also use the hydrometer to check whether the must has fully fermented. This is very important because bottling too early can be dangerous. These can explode during secondary fermentation in the bottle and nobody wants that.
If the hydromer indicates an SG of 1000 or even less, all the sugar has been converted to alcohol and you have made a dry wine.
A hydrometer is made of glass and is also called an aerometer, beer wort meter, density meter, densimeter, must meter or sugar meter.
You can let the squeezed skins of your fruit ferment for a few days (pulp fermentation) to give more flavor or color to your wine. This often also brings tannin (tannic acid) into the wine. This increases the shelf life, but also means that the wine has to lie longer before it is ready to drink.
You can use the moment of siphoning for the 2nd fermentation to check the acidity of your wine in the making. If you follow the given recipes you can also skip this check.
The bitter tannin increases the shelf life, but also has a major influence on the taste. A wine with a lot of tannin often has to sit for years until it has become drinkable due to taste development.
A glass transparent fermentation bottle (carboy) is ideal because you can follow the entire process well. Nowadays there are also good plastic alternatives available. Always put the bottle in a dark place or cover it so that no light can reach your wine. Because you don't want your wine to lose color.
Over time, you will see a thickening white layer of dead yeast cells on the bottom of your fermentation bottle. These yeast cells eventually succumbed to the alcohol they produced.
To prevent this dead yeast from giving your wine a yeasty taste, transfer the wine to a new clean bottle after a few months. Try to prevent as much as possible yeast cells from the bottom to the new bottle.
Now make sure there is as little air as possible above the wine and let the wine ferment further.
You can use a moment of siphoning to check the acidity of your wine in the making. There are special meters for that. If you follow the given recipes you can also skip this.
However, many winemakers transfer their fermented wine a third time to a clean barrel that is put away for a few weeks in a cold environment. At a cold temperature (the colder, the better) the wine becomes super clear. Those who have a cellar - with a cold concrete floor - can count themselves lucky.
Then comes the moment of bottling. But..... bubbles of carbon dioxide sometimes remain in the fermented wine, with the result that we experience it as a sparkling wine. If that is not the intention, you can first degas the wine before you put it in the bottle.
Of course we always use new corks, which we disinfect by immersing them in hot water for some time. This also makes the cork more resilient and easier to squeeze into the bottle. Once the bottles are corked, we leave them upright for one to two days to allow the cork to recover. We are talking about old-fashioned natural corks. Of course you can also use synthetic corks.
Fill the bottles with your siphon and don't leave too much space under the cork. The less oxygen, the better. Handy devices for pressing the cork are available for little money.
After the bottles are filled and corked, you can store them lying down in a cool place to let your wine settle until ready to drink.
Of course you provide the bottles with a nice label and a shrink cap to cover the cork. A red capsule for red wine, a white capsule for white wine and a gold capsule for sparkling wine such as cider. You can unleash your creativity on the label. In any case, state what you made it from, the year and the alcohol content.
If the problem is not solved, make half a liter of yeast starter. If it ferments well, add half a liter of the wine. Once this mixture ferments well, add a liter of wine. Double the amount of wine to be added each time.
Water has a specific gravity of 1000. If you were to dissolve sugar in it, you would read a higher value, for example 1040. According to the table below, this must produces 5% alcohol when fermented. For a long-lasting wine you need a higher alcohol percentage and therefore also a proportionally higher sugar content of the must.
Suppose you want to make 10 liters of wine with an alcohol content of 16%, then according to the table you have an s.g. of 1120, or a sugar content of 3150 grams per 10 litres.
However, the must has a s.g. of 1040, or a sugar content of 1070 grams per 10 liters.
So you still need to add 2080 grams of sugar to the 10 liters of must.
s.w. | max. alcohol content |
grams of sugar per 10ltr |
||||
1000 | 0,0 | 0 | ||||
1010 | 0,9 | 125 | ||||
1015 | 1,6 | 250 | ||||
1020 | 2,3 | 440 | ||||
1025 | 3,0 | 570 | ||||
1030 | 3,7 | 760 | ||||
1035 | 4,4 | 950 | ||||
1040 | 5,1 | 1070 | ||||
1045 | 5,8 | 1200 | ||||
1050 | 6,5 | 1320 | ||||
1055 | 7,2 | 1450 | ||||
1060 | 7,8 | 1575 | ||||
1065 | 8,6 | 1700 | ||||
1070 | 9,2 | 1825 | ||||
1075 | 9,9 | 1950 | ||||
1080 | 10,6 | 2080 | ||||
1085 | 11,3 | 2250 | ||||
1090 | 12,0 | 2400 | ||||
1095 | 12,7 | 2520 | ||||
1100 | 13,4 | 2650 | ||||
1105 | 14,1 | 2770 | ||||
1110 | 14,9 | 2900 | ||||
1115 | 15,6 | 3025 | ||||
1120 | 16,3 | 3150 | ||||
1125 | 17,0 | 3275 | ||||
1130 | 17,7 | 3400 | ||||
1135 | 18,4 | 3520 |
temperature in °C |
correction reading |
||
10 | -0,6 | ||
15 | +0 | ||
20 | +0,9 | ||
25 | +2 | ||
30 | +3,4 | ||
35 | +5 | ||
40 | +6,8 |
Migraine wine is made by adding sulphite AFTER the fermentation process, to extend the shelf life of the wine or because you don't want to bottle it. Of course this is very unwise.
Always add 1 teaspoon of citric acid per liter of solution to a sulfite solution, because this is the only way to obtain the required sulfur dioxide.
A wine with a high tannin content can therefore be stored for a long to very long time. But because of the bitter tannin it will also take longer before the wine is ready to drink due to taste evolution and therefore tastes good.
This taste evolution can lead to surprisingly good wines. If you ever want to make a large amount of wine, it might be interesting to let part of your must ferment on the pulp a little longer than the recipe prescribes. This increases the tannin content and you have laid the foundation for a wine to keep.
Elderberries contain a lot of tannin and are therefore extremely suitable for a storage wine. Tannin precipitates over the years. Due to the associated taste evolution, some Bordeaux wines are only at their best after 20 years.
If you make a wine from flowers or grain, you should always add tannic acid for a bit of body. One teaspoon per tannic acid per 5 liters of must is a good ratio.
If you ever buy a wine press, make sure you buy a good one without exposed iron parts that your wine could come into contact with.
Otherwise your wine is at risk of iron breakage, a disease that will absolutely spoil your wine.
Stainless steel and clean wood are definitely good materials and you can possibly build it yourself. It is useful if your press can squeeze enough fruit in one go.
Do not squeeze red fruit, such as elderberries, to an extreme, to avoid adding too much of the bitter tannin to your juice.