Sodium Acetate | 15 | dl | |
Water | 85 | dl | |
Better: | |||
Sodium Acetate | 22 | dl | |
Disodium Phosphate | 3 | dl | |
Water | 75 | dl |
You can also give wood a really lived through looking outlook. In that case, before you start working with liquid, you will first deliberately damage your wood. Hit it with a chain. Or you can go crazy with a steel brush. A wire brush in an angle grinder or drill gives a fantastic result.
Or you temporarily hammer in a few rusty nails. Not quite, but half. You turn the protruding part so that the head of the nail makes a good impression in the wood. After a few nights, outside in the rain, the rusty imprint is clearly visible in the wood. Nice! Let it dry well first.
If you happen to have an air rifle at home, you can shoot some bullets into it. Otherwise, grab a board with some nails driven through it and give your wood some merciless blows. So....... that's a relief!
With rusty nails, awl and wire brush you can turn newly purchased planks into weathered and aged wood.
You can also achieve a nice effect with a paint burner.
Wear always safety goggles and safety gloves when you are going to work with wire brushes and machines. A good dust mask is also a must, because you don't want to inhale the fine wood dust that is released.
Pretreatment
With wood that contains a lot of resin, the surface must first be de-resined. You can do that with wood soap or thinner.
Tannin
Woods that contain a lot of tannin, such as oak and sweet chestnut, turn dark if they are treated with only ammonia. With ammonia dissolved in hydrogen peroxide, these types of wood actually color paler.
Working with ammonia and hydrogen peroxide
It all seems very exciting because of the chemicals. Still, it's relatively easy to do.
Some important points
Method 1
(small objects)
Method 2
(large objects)
Do not finish your bleached wood with alkyd based products. This wants to react with any residual water peroxide left behind and will discolour the wood strongly. Finishing with products based on acrylic resin is possible.
Wood can always change color later. Even back to the original color. If you want to make sure that the color of your wood stays the way you made it for as long as possible, you can treat it with a product that contains a UV filter.
NB!
Wear protective gloves, safety goggles, possibly a protective apron and work in a well-ventilated area. For hydrogen peroxide and ammonia, read the manufacturer's safety instructions on the packaging.
Smoked oak wood
You can easily darken oak wood yourself with a simple process, what they call: 'smoked oak wood'. Actually it is very simple. You allow the vapor of ammonia to react with the tannic acid present in oak wood. This method only works with untreated 'bare' wood. It should also work with chestnut wood, which also contains a lot of tannic acid.
The ammonia will have largely evaporated, so the remaining liquid in the container will mainly consist of water and you can throw it away. The vapor has done its job and darkened your wood. Want it even darker? Then you just repeat the whole process.
Attention! Make sure the vapor can reach all areas of the wood. Do not place the container with ammonia on the oak wood. You can put the oak itself on thin sticks. Either you take some old planks, put some screws through them and place them upside down, with the screw points upwards, on the bottom of the box. You put the wood on this. This way the ammonia can reach your wood everywhere.
Making a large oak object dark, such as a cupboard or a door, is also possible. You can build a 'tent' around it with some sticks and plastic foil and carry out the above process. If necessary, place an extra container of ammonia.
After this, one can whiten with:
1. Saturated solution of oxalic acid (poison) in warm water. The solution is brushed in well. The operation can be repeated at intervals.
2. Bleach, which can be purchased ready-made or made from bleach powder and soda solution. Dissolve 5¼ dl soda ash in sufficient water and, in addition, 2½ dl chlorinated lime in water. The two solutions are then mixed, the precipitate is allowed to settle and the clear solution is decanted. The solution is applied hot.
3. A solution of 5 g of potassium permangate per liter of water, followed by a solution of sodium sulphite or bisulphite. Optionally, post-bleaching with a 5% solution of oxalic acid is possible.
.4. A 10 pc solution of sodium hydrosulfite.
After bleaching, the wood must always be thoroughly washed with clean water. After alkaline bleaching agents, a little vinegar is added to the first washing water.
When a magnesite floor is installed directly on a concrete floor, the reinforcing steel can be affected. Without a sealing top layer, the floor turns white when it is scrubbed with soap.
A magnesite floor has some exclusive properties:
Usually, a wood granite floor consists of two layers, a base layer and a top layer, which are composed slightly differently.
Burnt magnesia | 6 parts by vol. |
Moist sawdust | 15 parts by vol. |
Chloromagnesium 25° Bé | 4 parts by vol. |
Burnt magnesia | 6 parts by vol. |
Wet sawdust | 12 parts by vol. |
Carbolineum | 1,5 parts by vol. |
Chloromagnesium 15° Bé | 5 parts by vol. |
Burnt magnesia | 6 parts by vol. |
Snail grit | 12 parts by vol. |
Chloromagnesium 18 Bé | 7 parts by vol. |
Burnt magnesia | 4,5 parts by vol. |
Sawdust | 13 parts by vol. |
Chloromagnesium 18 Bé | 7 parts by vol. |
Burnt magnesia | 7 parts by vol. |
Wood flour | 6 parts by vol. |
Cork scrap | 5 parts by vol. |
Kieselguhr | 2-3 parts by vol. |
Pigment | ⅔-2 parts by vol. |
Impregnating oil | 1 parts by vol. |
Chloromagnesium 20° Bé | 5,5 parts by vol. |
Burnt magnesia | 6 parts by vol. |
Wood flour | 12 parts by vol. |
Pigment | ⅔-2 parts by vol. |
Talcum | 1 parts by vol. |
Impregnating oil | 2 parts by vol. |
Chloromagnesium 20° Bé | 6 parts by vol. |
Burnt magnesia | 6 parts by vol. |
Wood flour | 6 parts by vol. |
Asbestos fibers | 6 parts by vol. |
Kieselguhr | 1 parts by vol. |
Pigment | ⅔-2 parts by vol. |
Impregnating oil | 1 parts by vol. |
Chloromagnesium 20° Bé | 5,5 parts by vol. |
Burnt magnesia | 6 parts by vol. |
Asbestos fibers | 12 parts by vol. |
Kieselguhr | 1 parts by vol. |
Pigment | ⅔-2 parts by vol. |
Chloromagnesium 20° Bé | 5-6 parts by vol. |
Burnt magnesia | 6 parts by vol. |
Stone flour | 10 parts by vol. |
Asbestos fibers | 2 parts by vol. |
Chloromagnesium 20° Bé | 4-6 parts by vol. |
Iron must be well insulated, with asphalt paint or better by wrapping it with jute and impregnating the jute with asphalt.
Since wood granite is generally sensitive to moisture, it is best to treat the floor with a wax solution, i.e. polishing wax, or with linseed oil.
Furthermore, it is possible to improve the wood granite considerably in this respect by adding 5 to 10% copper powder to the mass.If marble particles are added, the floor resembles terazzo
Turpentine oil | 65 | dl | |
Terpinole | 5 | dl | |
Derris root | 3 | dl | |
Pyrethrum blossoms | 3 | dl |
Pinene Chlorohydrate | 15 | dl | |
Bornyl Acetate | 5 | dl | |
Zinc resinate | 10 | dl |
The mixture is allowed to stand in a warm place for several more days, stirred from time to time and then filtered. The preparation can be used for all wooden floors, it penetrates into the wood and into the seams, disinfects the floor and the evaporating components disinfect the air.
By dissolving 2% beeswax and 4% carnauba wax or 8% I.G., wax V in the preparation, it also gives a shine to the treated wood.